I've Traveled to More Than 50 Countries but Something About This Surf Island in the Philippines Hooked Me

Siargao must be what Bali felt like 50 years ago.

As I sit down to write about Siargao, a place that feels like the last remaining paradise, I grapple with my profession and the assignment at hand. My job is to share the joy of traveling and help people discover new places and experience new cultures, and today, my assignment is to write about my trip to Siargao, a tiny island in the Philippines. Yet, sharing this paradise with the world fills me with unease; I can’t shake the worry that my words might unwittingly contribute to its erosion by motivating tourism and development.

With palm-covered hills, clear waters, and friendly locals, Siargao feels like one of the last wild sanctuaries in an increasingly commercialized world. Called the Philippines's surf capital, Siargao is beloved by surfers who are tired of Bali and Hawaii's crowded line-ups and willing to deal with the island’s developing infrastructure — brownouts are the norm here. Siargao is perhaps what Bali might’ve felt like in the early 1970s, when the island’s waves first started drawing foreigners.

And like Bali 50 years ago, Siargao is on the cusp of change. It is still mostly undeveloped and wild, with winding dirt roads and homes fashioned from tin sheets. But in General Luna, which houses the Cloud 9 surf wave that put Siargao on the map, the aptly named “Tourism Road” is lined with restaurants serving everything from dumplings and sushi to pizza and kebabs.

I’ve traveled all over the world, surfed in Bali and Hawaii, and I know for sure that Siargao has something special. A visit to Siargao is the chance to experience what those surf spots might’ve felt like decades ago — and for all my ambivalence, at the end of the day, I want to share that with you.

As a reminder, when you visit destinations prone to overtourism like this special place, you should attempt to leave a light footprint. Fill up your water bottle at refill stations (rather than buying bottled), say no to take-out containers, and turn off the air-conditioning when you leave for the day. Tourism keeps many locals employed but can also lead to a build-up of garbage, dirty groundwater, and trash-strewn coastlines. The U.S. dollar goes far. Tipping helps make an island that is becoming increasingly more expensive for locals more affordable.

Where to Stay

Bravo Beach Resort Siargao

Bravo is the unofficial Siargao meeting place. The hotel is central, sits right on the beach, and has a great Spanish restaurant. It also has its own skateboarding bowl, with an adjacent snack bar that serves arepas, home-brewed kombucha, and popsicles to bystanders.

While Bravo is not a five-star hotel, your dollar goes far in Siargao: You’ll be treated to clean, contemporary rooms with air-conditioning and semi-open showers. The property has just 22 guest rooms so it doesn’t take long for the staff to start remembering your preferences and welcome you like family.

Kalinaw Resort

There’s no bad room at Kalinaw Resort, which has just six villas, each with a private infinity pool and ocean views. The Wi-Fi is fast, the breakfast is complimentary (and delivered to your room), and parking is free if you rent a motorbike.

The Kalinaw is north of the bustling heart of General Luna, providing guests with a quieter stay. The renowned Cloud 9 surf break is just 15 minutes from the hotel on foot.

Siargao Bleu Resort & Spa

If you’re a sucker for a spa, there’s no better place to stay than Siargao Bleu, the island’s only spa resort. In addition to on-site pampering, the property has a strict “sanctuary time” that starts at 9 p.m. It’s a rule that ensures you will drift to sleep to the sound of the ocean — not your neighbor’s voice. Several of the villas here face the pool, which is one of the island’s best and biggest.

Nay Palad Hideaway

When it comes to luxury, there is absolutely no Siargao resort that comes close to Nay Palad Hideaway, which is 10 minutes south of downtown General Luna. Nay Palad is a hideaway in the truest sense — they call their property “the birthplace of barefoot luxury” and promise that your wallet won’t leave your pocket. (Nay Palad is all-inclusive.) Nay Palad Hideaway has just a few private villas and a quiet beachfront.

Things to Do

Surf

There are many beautiful Islands in the Philippines, but the surf brings people to Siargao. Start by walking the Cloud 9 boardwalk out to the tower to watch the surfers and get a feel for the waves. Then, head back to the beach to rent a board and secure a guide.

You can rent a board for under $10 and take a lesson for not much more. If the waves at Cloud 9 are too big (or busy), you can paddle over to the neighboring Quicksilver or Jacking Horse breaks. There are also many off-shore waves to catch on Siargao, and riding a boat to the surf is part of the experience.

Tri-island Tour

Three little islands off the coast of General Luna can be visited via the island’s Tri-island Tour. For around $25 a person, you can join a boat of around 20 other tourists to see Naked Island (a sandbar with no trees surrounded by unbelievably clear water), Daku Island, and the tiny Guyam Island. The trip includes a couple of snorkeling stops, too.

The whole experience is entirely touristy and delightful. The lunch spread, which included seafood and lots of fresh fruit, completely blew my expectations out of the water.

Skateboarding

Siargao’s love of surf transcends to land, where locals have mastered the art of surfskating (skateboarding with a flowy, surfy style). You can rent a board or book a surfskate lesson with the folks at Malakai Surfskate Shop and test your skills at the new Cloud 9 Skatepark, which opened in General Luna in September 2024 and is free and open to the public.

Magpopongko Rock Pools

One of the coolest things I did during my time on Siargao was visit the Magpopongko Rock Pools, which are basically human-sized tide pools. You can swim in the network of tide pools and cliff jump off the rock towers that jut out of them — all with an ocean view.

Magpopongko is definitely a tourist activity, but well worth the 50-minute drive from General Luna. (I hired a tuk-tuk to get there).

Pacifico and Alegria Beach

General Luna has plenty of beaches, but if you’re looking for an untouched, people-free experience, you’ll want to head north. Pacifico Beach is significantly quieter and less crowded and has its own surf spot to boot. Further north, near the northernmost tip of Siargao, is Alegria Beach, which is one of the island’s best swimming spots.

What to Eat

Kurvada

Anytime I scootered past Kurvada — day or night — it was packed. A line of pots and platters loaded with Filipino dishes sat at the front of the restaurant, paralleled by a second line of hungry, finger-pointing customers.

Siargao’s “turo-turo” eatery is a nod to the Filipino dining style, where you select a handful of often unidentifiable and unlabeled dishes and return to your table with a plateful of cheap, local food.

White Beard Coffee

White Beard Coffee made my favorite cup of coffee on the island, which always accompanied my White Beard breakfast du jour — typically waffles or garlic rice and eggs. The eatery has a great selection of Western-style breakfast items, along with some local dishes.

If you’re looking for an afternoon pick-me-up, grab a bottle of their Creamy Cloud 9 coffee drink for later.

Shaka

Every Cloud 9 surf day should begin with a coffee and smoothie bowl at Shaka. The little coffee shop and restaurant are right on the beach, and from their umbrella-shaded picnic tables, you can check out the swell and relish that you’re in paradise.

Shaka is best known for its smoothie bowls, which are works of art — think mango flowers, fans of sliced bananas, and toppings that include piles of chia seeds, coconut, and oats.

Brunch Spot

Brunch Spot is new to the Siargao food scene but was quickly one of my favorite restaurants on the island. It’s tucked back off the main road, is fully air-conditioned, and has some of the best hand-pulled noodles I’ve ever had.

Don’t let the name fool you — while it started as a “brunch spot,” it now remains open through dinner.

Hakata Ramen

A steaming bowl of ramen in the tropics may be a hard sell for some, but the food at Hakata It is so good that it has no problem filling seats — even in summer heat. (Don’t worry, they have cold noodle dishes as well.)

The vibe at Hakata is chill, the Japanese menu is authentic (and affordable), and the location is hard to beat — it’s right across from Cloud 9.

Halika

Both locals and tourists line up at Halika daily, hungry for the day’s batch of homemade gelato — served in homemade waffle cones. Flavors feature fruits and plants foraged on the island, from mango and coconut to pandan and ube.

When to Go

If you want to avoid the rainy season, head to Siargao between April and October. The rainy season typically kicks off in full force in November and continues through early March.

I visited the island for three weeks in September and only experienced two rainy days. It was still hot in the “fall season,” but the locals assured me it was nothing compared to what they experienced in June, July, and August. If you don’t like the heat, plan your visit in the spring or fall.

How to Get Around

It is extremely easy to get around the island, especially if you’re based in General Luna. There’s a never-ending supply of tuk-tuks, which run at all hours and are manned by friendly drivers. They will transport you up and down Tourism Road in General Luna for around $1 each way.

If you’re confident on a moped or scooter, you can rent one for around $5–$8 a day.

How to Get There

In addition to its developing infrastructure, Siargao’s other barrier is ease of access. U.S. travelers must fly into Manila or Cebu and then take a second plane to Siargao Airport (IAO). Cebu Pacific Airlines (aka Cebgo) and Philippine Airlines flies between both cities and Siargao frequently.

I spent a few days in Manila before flying directly to Siargao with Philippine Airlines. It was a quick flight (two hours) and a smooth travel day. I’ve heard that if you’re coming from Manila, you should avoid booking a flight to Siargao with a stopover in Cebu. The route is prone to delays.

In addition to taking a plane to Siargao, you can fly into Surigao City on the neighboring Mindanao island and take a ferry to Siargao.