This Island Has Underwater Wineries, the Cleanest Swimming Water in Europe, and Bioluminescent Caves — Plus 2,726 Hours of Sunshine a Year

With bioluminescent caves, azure coves, and underwater wineries, Hvar pulled me in the moment I stepped onto its buzzing dock. “As you approach the island of Hvar by boat, you're immediately captivated by the striking contrast of vibrant blue waters and lush green landscapes adorned with vineyards, olive groves, and pine,” said Ante Lacman, owner of Lacman Family Winery on Hvar. “And this stunning scenery is complemented by a rich tapestry of history and culture.”

Located in the Adriatic Sea, the Mediterranean island is about an hour away from Split via ferry. You could spend most of your time here on water, and I certainly tried — flying over frothy waves by boat to reach the gin-colored waters of the Pakleni Islands, discovering a private pebbly beach at a family-owned bistro, and waving to sunbathers nestled in pockets of craggy cliffs.

Thanks to nearly 300 sunny days a year, Hvar is also abuzz with outdoor events, including the annual Summer Festival, held between June and September to celebrate Croatia's musical heritage. Also in the summer, the Lavender Festival in Velo Grablje lets the fragrant flower take center stage with workshops, vendors, and performances. At one point, lavender was cultivated on nearly 1,000 hectares of Hvar, and the island itself accounted for nearly 10 percent of the world’s total lavender production. Harvest season, which typically begins in August, is the perfect time to delve into the region’s history of winemaking. Vines in Hvar date back to 384 B.C., and local varietals include the peppery red plavac mali, golden prč, and herbaceous bogdanuša.

For another side of the island, visitors can bike through historic villages, go rock climbing on one of the 450 routes, and walk the iron steps along Hvar’s highest peak. Residents are always happy to share tips and anecdotes about their beloved island. “The spirit of the Croatian people is infectious; we cherish laughter and camaraderie. My mother, at 80 years old, effortlessly walks 22 kilometers a day. I invite you to visit Croatia, immerse yourself in Hvar’s charm, and experience our way of life — it's an experience that will leave you irrevocably enchanted,” says Lacman.

Below, how plan a memorable trip to Hvar.

Hvar, Croatia

• Hvar is considered one of the sunniest places in Europe. Take advantage with a boat ride to the Pakleni Islands on the southwest coast or enjoy cocktails at Beach Club Hvar.

• Delve into Croatia’s ancient wine history with visits to underwater cellars and tastings at Zlatan Otok.

• Experience luxury and solitude in a lush pine forest on the north coast at the five-star Maslina Resort.

• Enjoy people-watching from the terrace of San Marco Restaurant, where Mediterranean dishes are paired with Croatian wines.

• Travel to Fortica Fortress, a medieval castle built in the sixth century, for rewarding views.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Palace Elisabeth

Palace Elisabeth stands on the historic site of the 13th-century Duke’s Palace, with 45 rooms and suites featuring hand-painted murals by designer Oto Blaha. Overlooking Dalmatia’s largest square, guests can enjoy prime views of the Adriatic from their in-suite balcony or while dining at San Marco, the resort’s restaurant.

Maslina Resort

Far from the foot traffic of Hvar town, Maslina in Stari Grad is a luxury retreat tucked into a hillside. Here, 53 rooms, suites, and villas include interiors cloaked in Croatian oak and terra-cotta. A two-story spa features an aqua thermal suite, a cold plunge pool, and indoor and outdoor treatment rooms.

Riva Marina

Just steps from the town’s superyacht marina, the 50-room Riva Marina combines more than 100 years of history with modern, sea-front accommodations. Guests can watch the arrival of luxury yachts from their suites, stroll along the lively waterfront promenade, and sail to the Pakleni Islands, known for their secluded beaches and restaurant and bar scene.

Beach Bay

The sustainably focused Beach Bay runs on solar power and is Croatia’s first hotel to join UNESCO’s tourism program, Sustainable Travel Pledge. The three-story boutique property features 33 rooms and was renovated in 2022. The nearest beach, Bonj, can be reached via foot in about 20 minutes.

Villa Porta Maestro

Opened in late 2023, Villa Porta Maestra is a boutique hotel reconstructed from an ancient Roman villa where more than 100 archeological artifacts were found and then preserved in an on-site museum. The 22 accommodations include a mix of standard rooms and suites with walk-in showers and high-end furnishings.

Related: 21 Beautiful Islands Around the World, From Martha's Vineyard to Bora Bora

Best Things to Do

Relax at Beach Club Hvar.

With nearly a century of seaside history, the secluded Beach Club Hvar offers plush sunbeds on floating decks jutting out over the sea, garden cabanas, and luxurious beachfront terraces. Built in 1927 and situated on the oldest public beach on the island, it’s a popular spot for sunseekers and wedding parties.

Explore the beaches.

Blessed with more than 15 beaches, Hvar has some of the cleanest swimming water in Europe. A water taxi or small private boat from Hvar town can get you to the Pakleni Islands in about 30 minutes. “In Hvar, it’s all about the sea — whether a speedboat excursion to the nearby islands in front of the city, discovering hidden beaches and coves, or sailing through the Hvar canal. It’s truly something to remember,” says Palace Elisabeth’s head of concierge, Ana Stambuk.

Wander through Hvar.

Hvar town is vibrant, full of stunning architecture and cultural treasures. Visit St. Stephen's Cathedral and the impressive 16th-century Fortica Fortress, which offers panoramic views of the town and surrounding islands. At sunset, take a stroll along Hvar’s port, order a gelato, and people-watch as day turns into night.

Enjoy wines dating back to ancient times.

With more than 2,700 hours of sun per year and widespread plots of land, it’s no wonder Hvar is a major wine producer. Today, visitors can taste grapes grown in the same vineyards the ancient Greeks first cultivated back in 384 B.C. Matijević is a small, family-owned winery that produces varietals like the red plavac mali. At award-winning Zlatan Otok, guests can venture downstairs for a tasting in the stone wine cellar under the sea. As part of the Waves and Wines experience, you'll head to Hvar’s scenic southern coast to visit a winery that’s only accessible by boat. In an old limestone chasm next to the sea, you can enjoy a secluded tasting that celebrates the island's wines from Cliffbase wine cellar.

Explore bioluminescent caves and historic shipwrecks.

Discover the island by sea with a snorkeling tour from Suncani Hvar Hotels. A sailboat or speedboat will whisk you away to historic shipwrecks and the Pakleni Islands, including the sparkling emerald Stiniva cove.

Related: I Cruised the Croatian Coast on a Ship With Just 38 Passengers — Here’s What It Was Like

Best Restaurants

San Marco

Perched on a secluded terrace at Palace Elisabeth, San Marco offers Mediterranean dishes using from fresh, local ingredients (think: beetroot and goat cheese risotto). Guests can also enjoy wines made from native Croatian grapes, paired with stunning views of the Adriatic’s superyacht port and the vibrant town below.

Val Marina

Set along the promenade at Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel, Val Marina’s menu celebrates the UNESCO-recognized Mediterranean diet of Hvar with an emphasis on local ingredients. Dishes include fresh tuna steak in olive oil and codfish filet with butter beans. The resort’s private terrace also offers impressive views of the harbor and city lights.

Mediterraneo

A family-owned institution for more than 70 years, Mediterraneo serves local Mediterranean specialties like Grdobina (monkfish, parmesan, and tomato) alongside Croatian wines. The large outdoor terrace draped in floral arrangements is a picture-perfect location for a lunch.

Alavia

Situated on the old road connecting Hvar with Stari Grad in Velo Grablje, Alavia relies on seasonal produce for comforting dishes like cucumber soup and parmesan pasta. The casual outdoor setting has panoramic views of the Dalmatian Coast.

How to Get There

Airlines like United and Delta have several flights per week from New Jersey (EWR) and New York (JFK) to Dubrovnik (DBV). From the airport, a 45-minute taxi ride will land you at Dubrovnik’s ferry terminal, Port Gruž. The state-run ferry, Jadrolinija, has a daily, high-speed catamaran service that takes about 3.5 hours to reach Hvar town. Krilo, meanwhile, is a private carrier option that takes about 3.25 hours to get to Hvar town. Travelers arriving in Split can also take the Jadrolinija to reach Hvar in just over an hour.

How to Get Around

The best way to get from mainland Croatia to Hvar is via a speedboat catamaran, which runs frequently from cities like Split and Dubrovnik. Hvar town is walkable, and the best way to reach other parts of the island is by taxi or car, which can be rented from companies like Dino.

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