INTERVIEW: Jeremmy Chiam, Head Chef at Iko — "My goal is to groom a 100% Singaporean team"
SINGAPORE — If you listened hard enough, you can almost hear the collective gasp of shock when word got out that Chef Jeremmy Chiam’s Le Binchotan was bringing down the shutters on its outfit at Amoy Street back in December 2020. Sure, we’re pretty cognizant of the unavoidable fact that restaurants are closing on the daily, but for it to happen to a stalwart such as Le Binchotan is a sure sign that more closures are about to head our way.
Since then I’ve kept one eye on Chef Jemm (as he’s more affectionately known) and made sure to keep abreast of his culinary developments, certain that something special would, this way come. Sure enough, like the gastronomical prophetess that I am, Chef Jemm announced the opening of Iko at Neil Road, taking over half the unit that used to house Taboo club. In this interview, Chef Jemm shares with me how he defines success and pulls the curtain back a tad on his latest baby, Iko Restaurant and Bar.
How would you describe what you do to someone you're meeting for the first time?
“Don't do unto others what you don't want done unto you’, this is a quote I live by.
As a chef and in my personal life, I treat everyone the same—I am sincere, warm and welcoming. I enjoy having a good time and cracking jokes with new people I meet.
This applies to my role as a Chef too. When I meet new customers, I try to make them feel more at home and welcomed by teasing them. Recently a guest who dined in requested a Panadol as his wife had a headache. Jokingly, I asked if they would like a table for one? Which caused them to laugh and set the tone for a good night.
These days, what aspect of food gets you most excited?
Freshness and flavour of food always excite me.
These days, what catches my attention is the simplicity of the dishes. The food industry is shifting towards healthy and sustainable concepts, and I am impressed by how they can conjure delicious and divine creations with ingredients as simple as vegetables. It takes skills and innovation to bring out the innate flavours of simple elements.
How do you define success, and how close are you currently to that definition?
Many often define success in the F&B industry by numbers to determine how well the establishment is doing.
However, my ultimate dream as a Chef is to change the perception of F&B in Singapore. In Europe and other parts of the world, chefs and service teams are well respected and compensated. Although our chefs go to culinary school (which sometimes cost as much as a university degree), we are not recognised in terms of pay grade.
My goal is to groom a 100% Singaporean team and create an environment where the team is well respected and recognised for their hard work and skills.
What was the most valuable lesson you've learned from Le Binchotan's closing that you're applying to the setting up of your newest venture, Iko Restaurant and Bar?
Space and adaptability.
At Le Binchotan, the restaurant was very aesthetically pleasing; however, we only had 29 seats (15 after social distancing), which put a massive strain on our profit margins. This is why at Iko, we made sure the interior was gorgeous, yet there are enough seats and space to cover our cost per seat.
Covid-19 also taught me the importance of adaptability. At Le Binchotan, when they ceased dine-in, we had to adapt quickly to meet delivery needs. Because the establishment was a bit more upscale, not many were willing to pay such a hefty price for a meal, which is why we sold Hokkien Mee to help us stay afloat.
At Iko, even though we had to cease dine-in in the first three weeks of opening, we were able to adapt fast and push out a suitable delivery menu with delivery specials to entice customers.
What has been the biggest misconception people have about your decision to launch Iko so close to the closure of Le Binchotan?
After the closure of Le Binchotan, I took a four-month break to recharge. At the same time, my team and I were looking for a space for Iko.
I think most customers expected the interior to look very similar to Le Binchotan and are surprised with Iko's Tokyo nightlife vibes. Iko is extremely welcoming and appeals to the masses as it is more casual and laid back—a place for customers to let loose and enjoy themselves.
In terms of cuisine, it is pretty similar, aside from Iko's menu being more Japanese ingredient-focused.
When you look at the state of dining in Singapore today, what is the one thing that gives you hope?
Due to the pandemic, we can’t travel, so Singaporeans are willing to spend more on dining. We also get more customers on weekends despite being in the CBD, as Singaporeans are having staycations and exploring our island etc.
It is also heart-warming to see Singaporeans unite to supporting local businesses, especially F&B. At the beginning of the pandemic, there were a few movements such as #supportlocal and #savefnb which made me feel hopeful that one day the F&B scene in Singapore will be a recognised and respected industry.
Watch more Lifestyle videos:
