This Historic New England Ski Spot Offers Panoramic Views, Affordable Slopes, and a Legendary Tram

For centuries, the rock formation known as “The Old Man of the Mountain” was New Hampshire’s most famous natural landmark. The face-shaped outcropping crumbled off its cliffside in 2003, but the mountain it was attached to remains one of the state’s most significant.

Cannon Mountain, besides being the one-time home of the Old Man, hosts an eponymous ski area that’s known for challenging riders from across the country.

“​​Cannon is renowned in the ski community for being a formidable mountain,” says Jennifer Karnan, Cannon’s director of marketing and sales. “We have a lot of challenging terrain, and we have a lot of varied terrain.”

The ski area is New Hampshire’s highest at 4,080 feet, and its 287 skiable acres include thigh-busting trails like DJ’s Tramline, which traces an entire lift line and is regularly called one of the toughest runs in the East.

But there are plenty of mountains where you can find advanced terrain. So, what really sets Cannon apart is its history.

The resort opened in 1933 under the stewardship of the state of New Hampshire and remains under state ownership today. The mountain is located in Franconia Notch State Park and is surrounded by the White Mountain National Forest, a protected land double whammy that insulates the area almost completely from corporate development. Cannon has no master-planned base village and no fancy slopeside bars.

“That’s part of what makes it special,” Karnan says. “It’s got that authenticity that people look for.”

The one downside of Cannon’s remoteness is that you’ll have to travel a ways for off-mountain activities. Luckily, though, the town of Littleton lies just 13 miles north. It’s one of New Hampshire’s best small towns, with a pleasing combination of old-school charm (yes, there’s a covered bridge) and new-school amenities like trendy bars and restaurants.

Combine the complex riding at Cannon with Littleton’s base camp bona fides, and you’ve got one of New England’s best ski trips.

• Cannon is nearly a century old and is the only ski area owned and operated by New Hampshire State Parks, making it appealingly retro.

• Extensive glading means lots of satisfying challenges for riders who love tree skiing.

• Much of the surrounding area is protected land, making the mountain blissfully free of overdevelopment…

• …But the hip town of Littleton offers creature comforts just a few miles away.

When to Go

Cannon typically opens in late November or early December and closes sometime in mid-April. Like the behemoth Mt. Washington a few miles to the east, “Cannon is known for having almost its own ecosystem,” Karnan notes — meaning you can’t necessarily use conditions elsewhere in the region to predict what the weather will be like on the mountain. Usually, though, February has the deepest snow.

March is the best month for signature events like '80s Day (leg warmers and neon encouraged) and BodeFest, an adaptive skiing fundraiser hosted by local Olympian Bode Miller.

While the later months of the season tend to have superior snowfall, note that, starting this year, they can be more expensive. Cannon introduced peak and off-peak pricing in the 2024-2025 season, and most weekend dates from January through March are considered “peak.” If you plan a weekend visit, try December, early January, or April to lock in off-peak rates.

Where to Stay

Mountain View Grand Resort & Spa: With no onsite lodging at Cannon, overnight visitors will have to do some driving — and the half-hour trek to the Mountain View Grand is worth the miles. This historic grand hotel offers luxurious rooms and suites, high-end dining, and a top-floor spa with stunning mountain views.

The Beal House: Just off of Littleton’s main drag, The Beal House describes itself as a “New England rooming house and restaurant.” The two rooms and four suites here are perfectly lovely, but the real draw is the food: Chef Adam Alderin’s hearty mountain cuisine is some of the region’s best.

Thayers Inn: Though the rooms here are relatively simple, Thayers Inn is significant for its history. The hotel has been a staple of downtown Littleton since 1850 and has hosted five presidents, from Ulysses S. Grant to George H.W. Bush.

Where to Eat

Schilling Beer Co.: The popular Schilling Beer Co. opened in Littleton in 2013 and has since expanded to a buzzy downtown “campus” spread across multiple buildings. Enjoy European-style lagers at the sleek store and taproom or wood-fired pizzas at the brewpub and kitchen — both offer views of the Ammonoosuc River.

Chang Thai Cafe: Thanks to Bangkok-born chef (and “Chopped” alumna) Emshika Alberini, Littleton has what few New England mountain towns can claim: a genuinely great Thai restaurant. Chang Thai Cafe occupies a well-appointed downtown space perfect for warming up with curry and a cocktail after a long day on the slopes.

Cafe 4080’: If simple, on-mountain dining is all you’re after, Cafe 4080’ will do the trick. This eatery at the summit of Cannon’s tramway offers cafeteria food, grab-and-go options, and, most notably, the highest-elevation beer taps in the state of New Hampshire.

Where to Apres Ski

Cannonball Pub: Located inside Cannon’s Peabody Base Lodge, the Cannonball Pub is the mountain’s primary apres-ski spot. There’s nothing fancy here, but there’s friendly service, live music on Saturdays, and plenty of beers — all you need for a no-frills apres befitting a famously no-frills mountain.

Peaks Pub: A few miles west of Cannon at the Franconia Inn, Peaks Pub offers après festivities every Saturday. Come for fireside pub grub and weekly “tap takeovers” by breweries from around New England.

Rek’-Lis Brewing Company: Apart from Schilling, Rek’-Lis is the buzziest brewery in this part of the White Mountains. Its taproom in the little town of Bethlehem is a popular apres spot for the surrounding ski resorts, especially for the younger, slightly rowdier crowd.

Off-mountain Activities

Given its small footprint and lack of corporate resort amenities, Cannon is a perfect ski area for those who want to spend as much time off the mountain as on it. The surrounding region offers many non-skiing activities, which can be divided into two categories: indoor fun and outdoor activities.

Littleton offers the perfect home base for visitors wanting to spend their off-slope time in civilization. The town has recently become known as a trendy haven for mountain-loving millennials, and you’ll see that demographic represented at small businesses like the Loading Dock music venue and the home store Maison Bohème. But the historic community also offers old-fashioned delights — it’s the birthplace of the storybook character Pollyanna, and the downtown sweet shop Chutters has a 112-foot candy counter believed to be the world’s longest.

Lovers of outdoor recreation, meanwhile, are in luck: Franconia Notch State Park, which Cannon is a part of, is one of the best in New Hampshire. The terrain in and near the park can be challenging in winter — serious ice climbers and winter hikers flock here for the steep cliffs and technical ascents — but plenty of local guides are ready to help less experienced adventurers. All-level activities in the area range from snowshoeing and fat-tire biking to charming horse-drawn sleigh rides.

How to Ride

Tickets: Adult tickets start at $99 for off-peak days and $114 for peak days, with discounts for seniors, military personnel, and (on Wednesdays only) New Hampshire residents. Multi-day passes start at $199 for two days of riding and $229 for three days, though the latter is offered only on weekdays.

The Tuckerbrook Family Area, built for families and beginners, also offers a standalone pass for visitors who don’t plan to leave the bunny slopes. The pass prices begin at $54 for adults and $34 for children.

Season passes begin at $899 for adults in 2024-2025 (or slightly less if you buy them several months in advance).

Cannon is also part of the Indy Pass, and for riders with plans to do lots of skiing in New Hampshire, there’s the White Mountain Superpass, offering access to Cannon and three other resorts around the region.

Rentals: Cannon has onsite rentals available at the Peabody Base Lodge. Off-mountain rental options are limited, but Village Ski & Sport in Lincoln offers a good selection 10 miles south of Cannon.

If you’re in the market to buy gear instead of renting, don’t miss Lahout’s. This legendary outfitter claims to be the oldest ski shop in America, and its flagship location in Littleton occupies the same space the Lahout family has operated in since opening their doors in 1920.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Cannon has 98 trails in total, of which 15 percent are rated “easier,” 52 percent are “more difficult,” and 33 percent are “most difficult.” Note, though, that many of the advanced trails don’t open until or unless a great deal of snow falls — so, depending on when you visit, the available runs may skew in favor of more beginner terrain.

The resort has 10 lifts, including the Cannon Mountain Aerial Tramway, which opened in 1938 and is North America’s first and oldest aerial tram. (And, as Cannon notes, on a clear day, you can see mountains in four states and all the way to Canada on the ride up.)

Programming

The Cannon Snowsports School offers skiing and snowboarding lessons for learners of all ages. Independent newbies can enjoy the Tuckerbrook Family Area, a beginner zone attached directly to the base complex. The mountain also offers adaptive sports programs, some of which have scholarship funding available.

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