Harlem’s Fashion Row Celebrates 15 Years with LVMH
On Tuesday, September 6, Harlem’s Fashion Row (HFR) kicked off NYFW and celebrated fifteen years of uplifting Black designers in the industry. This year’s celebration, held outside of General Grant National Memorial, was especially notable, as the storied fashion agency partnered with Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) to showcase three unique designers; Johnathan Hayden, Nicole Benefield, and Clarence Ruth. “We act as a bridge between designers of color and retailers through events, collaborations, pipeline programs, and brand strategy," Founder & CEO of HFR Brandice Daniel told attendees.
Despite the downpour outside, guests put the phrase “through rain or shine” into practice, rising to the occasion with a variety of vibrant ensembles and mingling to the rhythm of live band music, all while glasses of Chandon Garden Spritz circled among the crowd. As the evening progressed, attendees eventually made their way toward the runway, and the HFR award ceremony commenced.
Award recipients, honored for exemplifying excellence in their fields, included industry leaders across fashion and entertainment: performer Janet Jackson, Washington Post senior critic-at-large Robin Givhan, designer Sergio Hudson, stylist Ade Samuel, and actress, writer, and producer Issa Rae, who accepted HFR’s first-ever Virgil Abloh Award. “Throughout her career, Issa has exemplified many of the attributes I admire most about Virgil: creativity, integrity, fortitude, and a deep commitment in using one’s platform in service of others,” said the late designer’s wife Shannon Abloh.
After the round of applause came to a close, the music began, and the runway models emerged from behind the curtains. The first designs to appear on the catwalk were those of Johnathan Hayden, who presented a collection of carefully engineered textiles inspired by his travels to New Mexico. “I usually visit my family in New Mexico during the month of October to attend the annual International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta," says Hayden. "It is magic captured in a candy land confectionery of sewn patterns and colors that dot the skyline like sprinkles tossed carefree across The Land of Enchantment,” adds Hayden as he describes his collection.
During the show, the talented designer successfully brought his vision to life, presenting a cohesive collection that embodied a range of bold prints, pastel shades, and gorgeous fabrics that moved with ease “Thinking about this idea of ascension, I built a narrative traveling from the deepest depths of the ocean to the highest high of the sky, clouds, and atmosphere.”
Hayden also notes that the HFR x LVMH partnership, which provided him the opportunity to present his work for the second time during New York Fashion Week, not only marks a historic milestone for HFR, but also for the fashion industry as a whole: “We as designers have an opportunity to have the full attention of our industry, and I am excited to see what precedent this will establish for talent acquisition and future collaborations in the fashion industry.”
Following Hayden’s presentation was that of Nicole Benefield, who has an impressive 20 years of building collections for large womenswear brands under her belt. And although Benefield has displayed her work countless times before, this show was different, as her creations hailed from her own authentic brand, Nicole Benefield Portfolio. “I call my collection a continuous conversation, and the inspiration is grounded in thinking about its capacity to transition from one season to the next,” says Bendefield.
Benefield’s designs, which embody casual sophistication, are also firmly rooted in sustainability, an initiative in which she holds close to her personal ethos. “Sustainability efforts aren't cheap, and when we think of fashion, it’s almost the antithesis of what sustainability is at its core,” says Benefield. “For me, I have to think about creating with biodegradable fabrics that are well-made, stand the test of time, and most importantly I’m mindful about the consumer’s needs.”
And while crafting sustainable pieces that are simultaneously functional and appealing is no easy feat, Benefield successfully surpassed expectations. On the runway, Benefield's designs merged at the intersection of effortless and wearable, while also demonstrating her ability to invent organic shapes and play with portions.
The final designer to close out the evening was Clarence Ruth, founder of Cotte D'Armes and wearer of many hats including author, creative director, model, and artist. “The way I approach my art is similar to my approach in designing clothes, these two different mediums allow me to share a story.”
So, what is the story behind Ruth’s HFR x LVMH presentation? “With this collection, I wanted to encourage people to think outside the box, and I took two totally different things and merged them together: biker culture and clergy culture,” says Ruth.
Ruth's introduction to the power of fashion existed within the walls of the church, where he learned about sartorial elegance and the definition of Sunday best. Within his presentation, church motifs tactfully meld with bold hues and athletic wear to create a fresh perspective. “Although they exist within two different worlds, both the biker community and the church community reflect the same mindset of having each other's back."
Aside from discovering ingenuity in uncharted territory, Ruth also owes much of his inspiration to his seven-year-old son, who inspires him to continue forging a positive path for future generations. “I feel like we have an obligation as creatives to construct a space for artists of the future. With this show, I’m looking forward to showing the industry what we can do— and by 'we' I mean not just Clarence, Nicole, or Jonathan, but Black and Brown talent in the fashion industry.”
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