A Guidebook for When to Dry Clean—or Not
For a lot of folks, doing laundry isn't one of the most exciting parts of the day. As lucky as some are to have a laundry room in their home or a washing machine and dryer in their apartment, the process of folding and putting away laundry after the dryer sings its little tune to let you know it's finished is definitely a chore. However, there are some items that need cleaning that you simply can't—or shouldn't—throw in the washer, and when that's the case, you need to make a stop at the dry cleaner.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of dry cleaning, especially when it comes to a silk blouse or linen tablecloth. But how does dry cleaning work? We're curious people, so we asked an expert to walk us through what dry cleaning is and why some of your favorite pieces need it.
What Exactly Is Dry Cleaning?
In short, dry cleaning is the process of laundering clothing or home items without the use of water. Liquid solvents and chemicals are used in the process, but they don't penetrate and soak into the fibers the way water does in your at-home machine. People turn to dry cleaning to remove stains from clothing or to clean pieces that can't be submerged in water, like specific wools and silks, for example.
Dry cleaning prevents shrinkage in fabrics and won't ruin the material the way washing in your at-home machine might. Sal Fernandez, vice president of operations at Cameo by Copeland Cleaners, adds, "Dry cleaning will preserve your item's colors and texture longer than regular home washing." The dry cleaning process is actually quite simple.
Step One: Examine and Classify the Item
First, the dry cleaner classifies whether your item is delicate, a specific color, or has any special details that could be affected by the process (such as fur trim or buttons). The dry cleaner then tags your piece of clothing with information to help them find it for you when it's ready.
Step Two: Inspect and Pretreat Stains
The dry cleaner examines the item all over whether or not you point out a stain. If there's one you forgot to mention, the dry cleaner will try to classify what kind of stain it is and tag it to be treated it according to that classification before starting the dry cleaning process. At this point, the cleaner will remove or cover up delicate buttons and/or embellishments.
Step Three: Put Items in the Dry Cleaning Machine
Dry cleaners use machines that look and spin like a bigger version of the washing machines we have at home. The big difference is these machines don't use water. Instead, they agitate the fibers with a "nonhazardous solvent," in Fernandez's case, to remove stains and clean. The solvent still a liquid, but it doesn't soak into the material the way water does; dry cleaners can use different solvents (more on those in a minute).
Step Four: Second Inspection
To make sure that pesky stain has been removed, dry cleaners check each item again. If the stain isn't gone, they'll try treating it with different methods—for instance, steaming.
Step Five: Finish the Item
This is when the dry cleaner adds back any buttons and/or embellishments that have been removed. They also take steps to ensure it's ready for its next wear. At Cameo by Copeland, Fernandez says, they "finish the garment by hand pressing or steaming, replace any broken buttons, and package the item with fine stuffing tissue, if needed, to preserve the finish." They then "cover [the garment] with poly plastic, heat sealing the top/bottom to protect the garment until its worn again by the client."
What Chemicals Are Used in the Dry Cleaning Process?
"There are multiple solvents used in dry cleaning," explains Fernandez. "The most common was perchloroethylene, which is now used much less in the industry. As a high-end cleaning establishment, Cameo by Copeland uses an environmentally friendly solvent called Sensene, which is alcohol based." According to the SafeChem website, Sensene is "particularly effective on oil, fat, lanoline, sebum, milk, lipstick and motor oil." It's also approved as an additive for GOTS-certified textiles, the highest standard for certified organic fibers.
Perchloroethylene, more commonly referred to as PERC, is a carcinogen, and it can cause a myriad of health issues. Because it is so unhealthy, the federal Environmental Protection Agency actually proposed a ban on this substance in June 2023.
Before choosing a dry cleaner, we recommend making sure they use other solvents to clean your clothes, like some greener alternatives. While the Société Générale de Surveillance states that any dry cleaner who doesn't use PERC is taking part in green dry cleaning, there are a few solvent alternatives and dry cleaning options to look at that are more eco friendly. The SGS suggests professional wet cleaning, which "uses water and special equipment that gently washes, dries and restores fabrics." They also suggest liquid carbon dioxide (CO2), which is pressurized CO2 that turns into a liquid solvent that can be used to clean clothing.
However, using liquid silicone, called D5 from its chemical name, seems to be the best green alternative. D5 is nonhazardous, nontoxic, biodegradable, and odorless. "[D5] simply degrades into sand (SiO2), water, and carbon dioxide, leaving no toxic residue if released into the atmosphere, making it safe for air, water and soil," states the SGS.
What Products Should You Definitely Dry Clean?
You should dry-clean wool and silk since they're both such temperamental materials when it comes to water. "You do not want to wash your favorite Yves Saint Laurent blouse at home," as Fernandez puts it. Other fabrics to dry-clean are leather, cashmere, linen, fur, and sometimes cotton. Many everyday fabrics can simply be thrown in the wash, but these are some you definitely want to treat delicately.
When it comes to the frequency of dry cleaning, it depends on what you're looking to clean. "Everyday business shirts we recommend cleaning once a week," says Fernandez. "The more delicate fabrics like silks and cashmeres need more attention. Cleaning them after one wear is recommended to preserve their texture." He also suggests cleaning wool and cotton after two wears.
Business or formal garments, like suits, don't need to be dry cleaned as often. Every four or five wears is sufficient for a business jacket, according to the menswear company Flex Suits. For a formal jacket, it suggests every two to three wears; formal pants require less frequent cleaning, after five to seven wears. However, there are some who believe that you should dry clean your jacket and slacks at the same time in case any fading occurs. That way, your jacket and pants will match.
How Should You Prepare Your Item For Dry Cleaning?
"There is really no preparation necessary on the client's side," says Fernandez. "The only thing we ask is, if a garment is stained, not to treat with any home products or water. When a stain is tampered with, it makes it much more difficult to remove. Just make us aware of the stain." If you have any special requests or other damage to point out—like a broken button—tell your dry cleaner upfront.
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