FOOD REVIEW: Binary Gastro-bar — 'There’s a lot to gush about'

SINGAPORE — The simply named Binary makes a good case for the most fickle of diners lurking amidst friend groups. You know the kind—often found mulling far too long at ‘Appetizers’ and then declaring out loud that they should have ordered something else instead. Undecided diners aside, this gastro bar at Palais Renaissance recently burst onto Singapore’s dining scene with a culinary concept that had every opportunity to be kitsch and gimmicky. Instead, it manages to be a modern, novel, and altogether intriguing dining experience that I reckon many others will follow suit. It’s simply a matter of time.

Here, the moniker ‘Binary’ extends particularly to the menu, offering diners two choices of presentation for the same produce—Asian or Western. That the gastro bar’s unit number is 01-01A is but a happy binary coincidence, one that ties in elegantly with all the duality in these parts. That’s not to say your option is limited to a singularity—hardly. Get both versions of some dishes if your heart so desires because when presented with options, the best choice is, clearly, the best of both literal worlds.

Lest you forget, this gastro bar is also a watering hole with more than 60 wine labels, cocktails (try the Chrysanthemum Tea (S$24++), I beg of you), and craft beers, such as the Binary Craft Brew ($16++ per pint), an exclusive from Rye & Pint, a family-run local brewery managed by three brothers, Luther, Rufus, and Ross. But being the avid lover of gastro-anything, forgive me if I’m more inclined to gush over food more than spirits—and there’s a lot to rave about.

Here, the menu is divided into five concise sections: Bread and Chips, Small Plates, Mains, On the Side, and Dessert. It starts with a fluff of Homemade Kubaneh Bread (S$14++), served with your choice of either an Asian Kombu butter or a Western Garlic one—my bet’s on the Garlic though the Kombu is no slouch, coming in a close second with overtones of lusty umami that pairs heroically with the soft as a cloud Jewish-Yemeni Kubaneh Bread.

This is quickly followed by the Chicken Wings “Nasi Lemak” (S$18++) style that reminds me so much of the ones mom makes for Sunday lunch. It comes fried sans batter, although it is delicately marinated with cumin, fennel, lemongrass, and turmeric—the latter gives it a rich golden hue. It’s served with a sambal tumis that reminds me of mom’s, which probably explains my adoration for this little snack. The Western iteration is Buffalo Wings served with a blue cheese dip.

Elsewhere, the Tiger Prawns “Gambas Al Ajillo” (S$18++) is cooked in the traditional Spanish tapas-style with little else but garlic, parsley, and chilli flakes in olive oil. This one reminded me of the now-shuttered Ola Cocina Del mar, which is a testament to its dedication to authenticity. There’s also the Deep-fried Cheese Burrata (S$18++) on Pesto which I reckon would pair deliriously well with a pint of beer. I liked this too because somehow, the flavours don’t fight with each other although they had every opportunity to. Everything is just so harmonious. I am curious, though, to try the Asian iteration of a Deep-fried Tandoor Paneer with sautéed green chilli and yellow onion. But so far, there’s nothing I don’t like, which is quite rare, to say the least. Still, as I would soon find out, the best is yet to come.

My favourite seafood is given an adoring makeover into the “Lao Gan Ma Chilli” Crisp Octopus (S$28++) which leans more on the sweeter side than on the tongue-flaming lip-numbing, milk-grasping side of flavours. It’s tender, spiced, and highly addictive. Equally addictive is the Mushroom Fritti (S$14++), which I polished off in a heartbeat. How can something so deceptively simple—mushrooms coated in a batter, fried, and seasoned with white and black pepper and chilli powder—be this overwhelmingly tasty?

What I did not expect to enjoy as much as I did was the Parmesan Bacon Cauliflower (S$14++), a love-child of cabbage and fat—sultry sin with a touch of healthy good-for-your-body produce. I only had one main dish during lunch because with that many small plates, one can only be mildly indulgent. Still, the choice of Iberico Pluma with Korean Gochujang (S$38++) was a perfect one with slices of grilled pork that you have to assemble with leaves of green coral lettuce, Ssamjang sauce, kimchi, and sea salt. It helps that it’s pretty grandiose in presentation.

Then comes a dessert of a fun and whimsical Hong Kong Egglet, served with a scoop of Blue Sea Salt Ice Cream (S$16++), chocolate pop rocks, and yuzu jam. I’ve been reviewing food for the third year now, yet, this is the first time I’ve ever been served Egglet. Here, it’s light, fluffy, and adorable. I’d say it’s great for a child or a child-like adult to partake in, but then, bringing a kid to a gastro-bar is perhaps not the most kosher thing to do. Still, you do you, boo. Because with food as stellar as this, breaking a few societal rules is merely par for the course.

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390 Orchard Road, #01-01A, S238871
Daily: 11.30am – 10.30pm