You Can Explore Kerala's Famed Backwaters at This Lakefront Hotel — With an Incredible Pool, Local Cuisine, and an Ayurvedic Spa
The Leela Ashtamudi is in a prime location for exploring Kerala's backwaters, be it by speedboat or houseboat.
If you’re looking for a high-adrenaline hotel, this isn’t it.
The vibe at the Leela Ashtamudi, a Raviz Hotel, in India's Kerala state, is as laidback as its surroundings. For starters, the hotel is situated on the shore of Kerala’s second-largest lake, which is, in turn, a part of the area's famed backwater scene — imagine tall palm trees waving in the wind, the lake’s waters gently lapping at the embankment, and fisherfolk patiently waiting for their next meal, and yours.
A visitor’s typical day here might start with a speed boat ride with the boatman, Biju, to see brackish water dolphins. (P.S.: He’s a fount for fishing trivia.) Or you could be punted on a low-slung fishing boat through mangroves. At the very least, you could take a sunset cruise around the lake on the hotel’s houseboat. Even if none of the above, you’ll probably want to spend a chunk of your day by the pool, watching locals oar their way to and from the many villages that dot the water body.
To me, the backwaters permeate every aspect of life at the hotel, from the best rooms to book, which have the most panoramic views, to the food at Keraleeyam, the hotel’s primary restaurant.
The hotel’s 93 rooms and suites are tastefully decorated in a mashup of styles; some feature traditional Kerala murals drawn from Hindu myths, and others feature modern art. The furniture, too, is a mix of colonial and contemporary. The room to book is the Royal Heritage suite, which offers an expansive view of the lake (sunset included).
At Keraleeyam, one of its signature dishes uses pearl spot fished from Ashtamudi Lake that are then baked in a heaty spice mix. “The fish takes in the clay from the lake,” the hotel’s executive chef Arun Nair explained, “which makes it very soft and adds a certain depth to the dish's flavor.” While I was initially skeptical, the buttery dish led me to pescatarian heaven.
If that backwaters gem has watered your travel inspiration, read on for Travel + Leisure's full review.
The Leela Ashtamudi
With sloping red-tiled roofing, extensive timber use, and a dexterous mix of architectural styles — vernacular Nālukettu, colonial, and late noughties — the property makes a grand statement.
While the hotel is within Kollam town, its riverside location makes you feel far away, and the only immediate sign of the city are the water taxis that ferry people to and from.
An overnight cruise around Ashtamudi Lake on the hotel’s Mahayana houseboat, a two-bedroom vessel with hotel trappings, is a worthwhile experience.
The Rooms
The 93 rooms and suites are a pleasing concoction of aesthetic styles, with some featuring traditional Kerala murals drawn from Hindu myths, while others feature modern art. (Those made by artists with disabilities are particularly endearing.)
The furniture, too, is a mix of colonial and contemporary. But the most important reason for booking accommodation is the lake views. The Royal Suite, for instance, offers the most panoramic view and has a balcony perfect for cocktails at dusk.
But if it’s an out-of-the-ordinary experience you’re looking for, then pick between one of two centuries-old wooden homes that were translocated from their original locations and re-assembled at the hotel. Built in the vernacular style of architecture, they feature exquisite carvings and, in a way, open a window to Kerala’s heterogeneous culture. The Erattupetta Cottage belonged to a Hindu family, while the Anchal Cottage belonged to a Syrian Christian family.
Food and Drink
While the hotel’s principal restaurant, Keraleeyam, also serves Italian, Mediterranean, and Asian fare, the local cuisine is a big hit. The spicy, baked Ashtamudi pearl spot and the kingfish in a raw mango and coconut curry are both must-haves, as is the deep-fried chili beef — best eaten with flaky Malabar parotta (a local kind of bread). The restaurant also serves a traditional sadya meal consisting of nearly a dozen items, including condiments and dessert, served on a banana leaf. Ranthal, the hotel’s restaurant on a boat, specializes in Kerala-style grilled seafood and makes for an atmospheric dinner setting.
Activities and Amenities
The hotel's sunset-facing pool is a great spot for lazy afternoons and evening sundowner drinks. A compact gym adjacent to a gift shop that sells locally made items and kitschy souvenirs is well-equipped for most workout routines. The hotel’s banqueting spaces are a huge draw for corporate off-sites and destination weddings.
The Spa
The Raviz-owned spa brand, Favorite Kerala Ayurveda and Spa, occupies an upper floor of the property — which means, if the skill of your masseuse doesn’t lull you into stupor, the views certainly will. That said, the therapists are superbly trained, and there’s a doctor on call to advise specific Ayurvedic remedies, from dealing with severe jet lag to more persistent problems.
Family-friendly Offerings
Each evening, an artist is invited to perform a local dance form — Mohiniyattam, Bharatanatyam, Kathakali. It’s a great way to be exposed to local culture, especially for younger visitors. Another slice-of-life activity is a punt around the mangroves of Munroe Island. Narrow waterways take you past commercial fisheries via hamlets set by the water and give you a sense of what daily life is like in these parts.
You could also ask to have a meal at the home of a local, where a significant part of what they cook is based on what they catch. It doesn’t get more fishnet to fork than that. Back at the hotel, there are sporting activities, Including archery, table tennis, billiards, and volleyball. A yoga instructor is available for those so inclined.
Accessibility and Sustainability
Only one room is compliant with ADA standards, and while guests using wheelchairs can access venues such as Keraleeyam, Zirkon, and the spa, getting on to a boat of any kind will prove to be a challenge.
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