Etro Men’s Spring 2024
Before the bold patterns and different textures, before the seasonal inspiration and the unusually dark location — before any other element that could have demanded attention, Marco De Vincenzo’s second menswear collection for Etro stood out for the youthful energy oozing from his clothes.
In just a year, De Vincenzo has translated the bohemian ethos of the house into a simplified yet bold language that could resonate with the free spirits of today — and for spring this shift was expressed as efficiently and charmingly as ever. There was plenty in this collection that could appeal to younger generations, the skaters and the surfers, or simply those who are looking for clothes to affirm their identity — either flashily or quietly — and feel at ease while doing it.
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Rest assured that not all the romantic vibe of the pre-De Vincenzo era was lost; it was just tuned to a more pragmatic frequency: billowing shapes were traded for ones closer to the body but still fluid and elongated; layering was exchanged two to three pieces per look, and delicate prints left space for neat graphic touches.
In this, this Etro collection was very De Vincenzo.
To rebalance the equation, the designer once again relied on the house’s textile heritage, which alone could provide him with enough inspiration for a lifetime. De Vincenzo mainly opted for geometric patterns to define statement coats with studded collars, subtle inserts on plain leather bomber jackets or a glitzy treatment on bowling shirts. More essential motifs created optical effects when splashed on jumpsuits and the plethora of roomy pants and Bermuda shorts defining the silhouette of the season, while floral embroideries embellished lightweight pajama sets.
As a counterpoint to the airy feel, which was furthered with see-through knits, the designer introduced fuzzy textures in striped tank tops and oversize sweaters in vibrant tangerine and popping Tiffany blue hues. A trifecta of chunky carpet-like cardigans and capes ended the show with a bang: wrapped in the rich pieces finished off with tassels swinging at every strut, bare torsoed models sold the Etro dream of craftsmanship and freedom at the same time.
Adding to the youthful vibe, soccer-inspired jerseys and a tattoo-like top had eye-catching images on the front linked to the seasonal narrative of allegories. De Vincenzo said these nodded to a rare 17th-century book by Cesare Ripa he found by chance in his hometown in Sicily, which was filled with allegorical images depicting virtues, qualities and vices.
Seeing affinities between the book, modern digital tools like memes and GIFs that express concepts nonverbally and his own work of communicating through image, De Vincenzo was inspired to include illustrations of Beauty, Eternity and Lust in the collection. His favorite? A woman wrapped in ivy.
“It’s Tenacity, and I couldn’t avoid to include it. It’s among the main virtues to have in fashion today,” he said.
Launch Gallery: Etro Men's Spring 2024
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