estiatorio Milos: Greek hotspot in Marina Bay Sands serving the world’s finest seafood treasures

We hear ‘fresh seafood’ all the time but which restaurant air-flies fish and seafood from Greece and the Mediterranean to Singapore daily? estiatorio Milos.

It’s a meeting of the freshest Mediterranean flavours and vibrant energy of Greek hospitality. Founded by Chef Costas Spiliadis in Montreal in 1979, Milos today thrills the tastebuds in 11 international cities, including Athens, London, New York and Dubai. Singapore is its first and only outpost in Asia.

Singapore’s love for fresh seafood is well-known, as is the Greeks’ finesse in preparing it. The debut of this world-famous restaurant at Marina Bay Sands is a match made in heaven. Seafood lovers, you are in for a truly extraordinary experience!

What I tried at estiatorio Milos

With a reputation that precedes it, Milos has been on my radar. Despite that, I was stunned by the sublime elegance of the restaurant. Heavy in Greek heritage but decidedly modern, the concept perfectly showcases the fish market centrepiece, raw bar and seasonal vegetable display, in addition to the 28-metre-long open kitchen which adds an interesting theatrical aspect to the dining experience. 

The latter is a smorgasbord of wild-caught treasures from the sea. Over 15 varieties of seafood, from Mediterranean octopus from Limnos Island to delicate, glistening sashimi cuts, are yours to choose from. You can savour them grilled to perfection, served as sashimi or baked in a golden crust of sea salt from Kythira island.

At Milos, the diner is at the centre of the universe. It starts with the experience of choosing from the spread of wild seafood guided by the knowledgeable Milos captains.

Next, the open kitchen design draws you into the heart of the action while watching your meal come to life right before your eyes. This immersion brings the Mediterranean to all your senses, making you a part of the magic.

If you think I am gushing now, oh, just you wait…

Our starter was Ceviche (S$42++) featuring Mediterranean sea bass (Lavraki), chosen over the Atlantic sea bass for its light fattiness. Infused with citrusy lemon, fresh herbs and feta cheese, the dish had an inherent sweetness nudged in a slight heat from Fresno chillies.

Light and refreshing, it was a great starter. You must pair it with the crostini. By the end of the evening, the Ceviche was my second favourite dish.

I was slightly apprehensive when the second dish was announced as charcoal broiled Octopus (S$48++). I have rarely seen it done right and am not a fan of an overly tough and chewy texture. It was presented in a lovely manner with a Santorini fava, made of yellow split peas.

My fears were unfounded.

Delectably tender and charred to the perfect degree, the grilled octopus from Limnos island, caught by Milos’ private fisherman, was a buttery dream. I found myself literally closing my eyes as the flavourful dip serenaded the spaces in between the meat; the perfect pairing. Sorry, ceviche, but your reign at the top was a short one.

“Surely the octopus would be champion longer… right?” I thought as the plate of Grilled Shrimp (S$45++) made its way to me escorted by a vanguard of mesmerising aroma.

Presentation-wise, it shared the diagonality of the ceviche but punctuated by 2 lemon slices in the place of bread. A smoky char on the premium New Caledonia blue shrimp emanated from the array, carrying just a hint of sweet undertones. I took a taste.

Simplicity done right. Milos applies subtle marination and this allows the natural sweetness to flourish. That candid character is enhanced with fennel, scallion, dill and lemon juice to sprinkle your tastebuds with a myriad of delightful sparks.

In any other world, this dish would be my favourite. At Milos, it tied with the superb octopus.

I was still deliberating when the marvellous Astakomaronada – lobster pasta Athenian-style (Market Price) – made its debut. One word: spectacular.

These lobsters are imported fresh only after they weigh 1kg, making the plating a visual spectacle. There’s no doubting its popularity, either; every person at the table of 5 next to ours had it, and there was at least one on every other table that evening.

A 1kg lobster makes for a substantial meal, especially accompanied by tomato-based, sauce-heavy pasta. It was rich and hearty, significantly heavier than any of the preceding dishes. That’s not a criticism but ample notice to save space for a dish you will want to enjoy to the fullest.

Whole fish (Lavraki) baked in sea salt (Market Price) was our final dish of the evening. As with the lobster, the Mediterranean sea bass comes as a huge serving; apparently, the fish must weigh at least 1kg for it to cook properly using the traditional Greek method.

It is plated tableside in a mouthwatering display that begins with the sea bass rising from within a thick crust of sea salt.

From the first morsel, the pure tenderness of the fish dominates your palate. Another characteristic it shares with the octopus and shrimp is the restraint with which it is prepared; its natural flavours emerge unscathed to create a sensory journey to the seas of Greece.

Despite that subtlety, there is no overt fishy flavour. Capers and Ladolemono sauce add all the taste highlights you could wish for without marring the authenticity of the Lavraki. This dish is perfect for a table of 4.

Final thoughts

Milos has a swanky home at Marina Bay Sands and rightly so. It has an electric vibe and is a milestone addition to the local dining scene.

In true Greek fashion, the portions are made for sharing. A theme of authentic flavours runs through the menu— it is particularly light on seasoning, a testament to the high regard for the much-vaunted Greek diet. I loved the ceviche as well as the grilled octopus and shrimp, and definitely the whole fish baked in sea salt, and recommend them all highly.

For a world-class restaurant that flies its fresh seafood daily, Milos is not particularly expensive, either. For a special celebration, it’s one of my top picks anywhere on the island.

Milos presents a three-course set lunch menu featuring its signature dishes on weekdays from S$68++ and weekends from S$88++. For reservations and more details, visit www.marinabaysands.com/Milos. Stay tuned to @estiatoriomilossg on Instagram.

Expected damage: S$70 – S$200 per pax

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