Dunhill Spring 2024
Simon Holloway may have only stepped into the Dunhill creative director’s role a few weeks ago, but he already has clear ideas about where he wants to take the Richemont-owned heritage brand.
“I want the guys to look more handsome — like movie stars,” said Holloway, who himself had an air of old-world cinematic glamour during a walk-through at Dunhill’s Mayfair headquarters.
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He was wearing one of the brand’s new blue blazers with a white shirt and a silk knit tie — a radical move in this era of dressing down.
Holloway, who was previously creative director at James Purdey & Sons and whose résumé includes Agnona, Hogan, Jimmy Choo, Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren, said he wants to restore Dunhill to its classic roots, and make finely tailored clothing with British wool and a light hand.
The spring collection was a transitional one designed by the in-house team and styled by Holloway. His first full collection for Dunhill will bow for fall 2024 and will be presented in London next February.
The focus was on tailoring with lots of lightweight wool for jackets with subtle stripes or windowpane checks. One navy blazer was done in a jersey piquet wool weave while another was done in unlined suede.
Holloway paired some of those wool jackets with white cotton or gray flannel Gurkha trousers for an old world, English aristo feel.
Knitwear played a fine supporting role, with featherweight cashmere scarves wrapped around the neck of jackets; a shawl-collar wool sweater paired with white, knee-length shorts; a chain stitch argyle sweater, and a lineup of luscious cable-knits.
Holloway put a strong emphasis on soft accessories, too, tucking a gossamer linen dotted handkerchief into the pocket of a jacket or adding a geometric print silk scarf to the neck of a wool sweater.
Going forward, Holloway said he plans to lean into the bespoke heritage of Dunhill, and is eager to see the brand’s suits on the red carpet and the awards stage once again.
He’s off to a good start. Even before his official arrival at the brand, he was helping dress actors James McAvoy and Harris Dickinson for the Met Gala, and there will be much more to come.
Launch Gallery: Dunhill Men’s Spring 2024
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