This Design-Centric, 5-Star Swiss Resort Is a Haven for Wellness Seekers and Aficionados — Here’s What a Stay Is Like

Set in the alpine hamlet of Vals, 7132's thermal baths are a standalone architectural marvel.

It’s hard to imagine a more dramatic way to arrive at a hotel than via private helicopter through one of the world’s most famous mountain ranges. But soon after boarding a sleek black Airbus EC 130 chopper at the Zurich airport, two other guests and I are gushing over the panoramic views of the Swiss Alps en route to 7132, a five-star resort in the alpine hamlet of Vals.

Surrounded by rugged, snow-capped peaks, lush valleys spread out below, and the occasional hang glider soaring past, I lose track of how many times I squealed, “Wow!” When our pilot, Dani, maneuvers us for landing, I’m simultaneously relieved and disappointed.

But plenty more delights — if not the adrenaline-pumping thrill of a helicopter ride — awaited at 7132, starting with its stunning thermal baths. A masterpiece by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, the striking space has drawn design gurus and wellness seekers for nearly three decades, and for three days, I was grateful to be one of them.

The property has also proven its culinary prowess in recent years, with a Michelin star awarded to its fine-dining restaurant, 7132 Silver, in 2015 and a second in 2016. Now, executive chef Marcel Koolen, who came on board in 2020, and his team are literally taking the hotel’s cuisine to new heights with an alfresco private dining experience at 6,500 feet above sea level, starring high-quality local and forest-foraged ingredients cooked on an open fire and paired with exclusive vintages of Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne.

“When it's good weather on our days off, most of us on the team always go to that location,” Koolen, originally from the Netherlands, tells me in the 7132 Silver kitchen. “Everyone brings something, and we just do a little cooking jam. That’s where the idea started to do this with the guests. We make sure it’s a completely different experience from here in the restaurant, but still on a two Michelin-star level.”

During my stay, I was among the lucky first guests to enjoy this fancy mountaintop meal, which is part of the just-launched “Beyond the Clouds” package with helicopter transfers, a glacier picnic, and other luxurious perks — 7132’s fanciest offering yet. However, my favorite moments were less bucket-list extravagant and more everyday idyllic: morning runs against the backdrop of the Alps, followed by a lavish breakfast, soaking in the thermal baths, and relaxing on my terrace while listening to the tinkling cowbells — the soothing soundtrack in this part of the world.

Considering a stay of your own at 7132 Hotel? Here’s the full review from my recent visit.

7132 Hotel

• The unbeatable location smack-dab amidst majestic mountain peaks and waterfalls is nirvana for outdoor enthusiasts, while the charming hamlet of Vals is only a 10-minute walk.

• Access to the thermal baths and breakfast are included in all rooms. The breakfast features an impressive buffet of homemade breads, yogurt, and fresh fruit, accompanied by elevated a la carte dishes like dill-marinated char and eggs Benedict.

• Spa suites are like a private wellness sanctuary, equipped with large round tubs and in-shower steam rooms; free minibars, including beer and soft drinks, are restocked daily.

• The service staff, many from Italy, are helpful and downright fun. They are always happy to snap a photo (or squeeze into your selfie!) and offer local tips.

The Rooms

The starchitect team of Zumthor, Tadao Ando, and Kengo Kuma, from Japan, and American Thom Mayne helmed a massive renovation of the original mid-century modern hotel, a five-year project that wrapped in 2017. Their styles are showcased in the House of Architects, whose 73 rooms each have a unique design (rates start at around $400). For architecture diehards, three splurge-worthy, Kuma-designed penthouse suites ooze with understated luxury: think wood-and-quartzite features, soaking tubs, and floor-to-ceiling windows. (Rates start at $3,500 per night, with a two-night minimum, but include helicopter transfers.)

Meanwhile, the 22-room 7132 Hotel offers spacious, five-star digs with spa-like bathrooms and expansive terraces overlooking alpine views (from $1,000). My 650-square-foot spa deluxe room was divine, with an entire room dedicated to the tub, a massive shower, and a huge walk-in closet. But I especially loved just sitting in the high-backed easy chair and gazing at the bucolic Swiss landscapes, half-expecting Heidi and her grandfather to wander out of their cabin. My only gripe: The room was quite warm, but the staff brought me a Dyson cooling unit that I turned on in the evenings.

Food and Drink

7132 Silver is everything you’d expect from a two-Michelin star experience. But Koolen and his team have put their stamp on the menu with creative, vegetable-forward dishes, many sourced from the hotel’s farm down the road. Meanwhile, sommelier Franziska Wölfle is a whiz with wine pairings. I also loved the classic dishes — like a dynamite surf and turf — at the snazzy 7132 Red. Breakfasts were excellent, too: It’s hard to beat tucking into a perfectly cooked omelet, homemade bread, and farm butter against a backdrop of the Swiss Alps. For late-night bites, cocktails, and live music, Blue Bar hits all the right notes.

Activities and Experiences

Not surprisingly, activities center on the abundant outdoor playground in Vals and beyond. In fact, a hiking trail winding through an alpine forest is accessible right outside the lobby. You can also rent an e-mountain bike; ask for a map and trail recommendations depending on your skill level. The hotel also offers other unique packages, including movie nights at the thermal baths and guided tours around town.

The Spa

Yes, there’s a lovely on-site spa, as well as a well-equipped gym, but the thermal baths steal the show on the wellness front. Zumthor’s striking design features some 60,000 slabs of quartzite housing six pools of highly mineralized spring water, which are believed to have therapeutic properties. Pools connect indoor and outdoor areas, with comfy lounge chairs positioned throughout. (Insider tip: cell phones are strictly prohibited). Weekdays are considerably less busy than weekends.

Living in Europe, I’m no stranger to thermal baths, but 7132’s experience is in a class of its own. I especially loved the invigorating cold plunge after boiling myself in the hot pool, while the darkened room with lighted water and floating chamomile petals was downright dreamy. Night bathing, meanwhile, is especially suited for night owls since it’s available from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m. on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays. I didn’t partake, but it received solid reviews from my travel companions (with one caveat: There was more than one couple engaged in a heated makeout session).

Accessibility and Sustainability

Elevators offer access to all floors, while the thermal baths have ramps. However, guests with limited mobility should contact the hotel ahead of time for more information, as some rooms have steps. (In fact, a step in my bathroom area — the only design flaw I noticed — could have broken my toe on my first day had I not been wearing the slippers provided. From then on, housekeeping staff placed a towel over the step.)

On the sustainability front, an innovative system converts heat from thermal water into energy that heats the entire property, including the baths. All dairy products and eggs are sourced from farmers in Vals, while meat and fish come mostly from local farmers or within Switzerland. Koolen’s team also regularly forages for berries, mushrooms, and herbs to use in their dishes.

Location

Vals is a paradise for outdoorsy types. The local ski resort draws the downhill set during winter, while in summer, the gondola, located about a mile from the hotel, takes hikers up the mountain. Meanwhile, hiking and biking trails galore offer quad-burning, all-day adventures and shorter (but still strenuous) jaunts.

Vals is about a two-hour drive from Zurich (the hotel can book transfers; the trip via helicopter takes about 45 minutes). The closest train stations are Ilanz and Chur, each about 30 minutes away.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

In addition to House of Architects rooms, which are more affordable and include breakfast and thermal bath access, budget-conscious travelers can consider 7132 Glenner. Rates at this 12-room, chalet-style hotel, about a 10-minute walk from the main property, start around $280, including thermal bath access. Finally, you may be able to snag a double or single room in 7132’s five-star section on the website. These rooms aren’t heavily promoted, but their rates can be significantly lower.

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