How Do You Create an Icon? Take a Look at Elsa Peretti and Tiffany
The revolution began with a sterling silver bud vase that walked the runway for designer Giorgio di Sant’Angelo in 1969. The woman responsible for the creation, Elsa Peretti, found the vase at a flea market and had it rendered in silver to be worn as a pendant. She followed that sophisticated stunt by abstracting snakes, scorpions, and skeletons in sterling, reducing natural and ancient forms to their essence for Tiffany & Co., where she went on to design myriad collections, beginning in 1974.
After a childhood in Florence and schooling in Rome and Switzerland, the rebellious Peretti alighted in New York City. She raged through town with Halston often in tow, unabashedly causing scenes at clubs du jour like Studio 54. Her work, like her social life, was dynamic as well as historic. Peretti shifted the perception of fine jewelry by designing primarily in sterling silver rather than gold or platinum, pricing pieces from a few hundred dollars into the tens of thousands. Her jewels were worn by the most fashionable women of the ’70s, including Bianca Jagger, Diana Ross, and Liza Minnelli.
This year marks the 50th anniversary of Peretti’s enduring collaboration with Tiffany & Co. Her Bean, Mesh, and Bone designs are to be joined for the first time by rose brooches paved in diamonds, hearts sculpted of black jade, and milky Bone bangles with a copper base—each a wearable monument to a brilliant mind.
Scorpion Necklace
Peretti’s iconic Scorpion necklace in 18-karat yellow gold features a detachable pendant.
Elsa Peretti
Celebrated jewelry designer Elsa Peretti wears Halston in her New York City apartment, where she was photographed by Horst P Horst in 1976.
Necklace, Ring, and Cuff
Peretti’s 18-karat yellow gold Bone cuff with green jade (at right) pairs well with the Cabochon ring and Claw necklace she designed in the same materials. All prices upon request. tiffany.com
Scorpion Necklace
Peretti’s iconic Scorpion necklace in 18-karat yellow gold features a detachable pendant.
Studio
Peretti at work in her studio, photographed by Duane Michals for Vogue in December 1974.
Cuff
The large Bone cuff is now offered in a white finish over copper.
Studio
Peretti at work in her studio, photographed by Duane Michals for Vogue in December 1974.
Ring and Cuffs
18-karat yellow gold and green jade Cabochon ring; small 18-karat yellow gold and tigereye Bone cuffs; 18-karat yellow gold large Bone cuff.
Cuff
The large Bone cuff is now offered in a white finish over copper.
Snake Necklace
18-karat yellow gold Snake necklace.
Ring and Cuffs
18-karat yellow gold and green jade Cabochon ring; small 18-karat yellow gold and tigereye Bone cuffs; 18-karat yellow gold large Bone cuff.
Elsa Peretti
Celebrated jewelry designer Elsa Peretti wears Halston in her New York City apartment, where she was photographed by Horst P Horst in 1976.
Snake Necklace
18-karat yellow gold Snake necklace.
At Home
Peretti at home in New York City, photographed by Horst P Horst for Vogue in April 1976.
This story originally appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of ELLE DECOR. SUBSCRIBE
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