There is a lot to digest from this month’s fall/winter 2024 men’s fashion shows in Europe.
From Rick Owens’ persistent willingness to push the boundaries of footwear design, to Comme des Garçons’ interesting use of proportions, there were plenty of attention-grabbing shoes and accessories in Milan and Paris.
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Some eye-catching styles came in the form of kitschy fruit references, while others played with cozy materials to make animal-like boots. Here, a look at the craziest (in a good way), most talked-about men’s shoes from the fall ’24 collections in Paris and Milan this month.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey is back with his latest punk meets experimental collection. Jeffrey’s signature claw shoe series, which first made an appearance in autumn/winter 2019 in conjunction with British footwear maker Roker, returns this season in the form of chunky Wellington boots. The most whimsical version is a bright yellow pair that sprouts into a peeled banana as it moves up the wearer’s calf. Now, you can literally walk in a banana – just don’t slip.
Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons Homme built on its double-shoe themed collaboration with Kids Love Gaite from last season to create a new style for fall ’24. Whereas last season the two companies created a derby dress shoe with two toe boxes, this season features a shoe with two soles. The new lace-up brogue features a second, exaggerated, sole that juts out from the side of the shoe. The dress shoe model, which featured wingtip detailing, was seen on the runway in two colorways, a traditional black style and a snakeskin printed leather version. Hopefully the extra sole won’t trip anyone up.
Known for its statement shoes, Dsquared2 delivered just that for fall ’24. The new furry Sasquatch (their word, not ours) boots play into the overall collection’s theme of combing elements of raw and refined materials and ideas. The new boot is just calling for an après ski moment in the Alps somewhere. Although, I’m not sure these boots would look so great once they get wet.
This season’s show teased a new collaboration with Los Angeles and Rome-based Ma Yansong, the founder of architecture studio MAD Architects. Described as furthering the season’s call-and-repeat between man and nature with a futuristic edge, the capsule’s accessories are definitely something from the future. For the collaboration’s footwear, Fendi and Yansong worked on a slip-on futuristic sneaker that features an organic injection molded sole and an upper with two-tone bubble details and metallic accents. It’s low, flat profile aims to create an ergonomic alternative to the season’s twisted classics.
Feng Chen Wang
The Chinese-born and London-based menswear designer, known for her bold conceptual designs, debuted a new other-worldly removable molded sole. According to Wang, the 3D molded sole, called the Chahu, is inspired by the shape of a deformed teapot with irregular edges that are curved three-dimensionally. (Tea was an overall theme in her collection this season.) The new sole can be added to Wang’s new Converse Chuck 70 collab, and will definitely serve as a conversation starter.
Nigo debuted quite a few men’s shoe silhouettes for Kenzo this season, but the standout star came in the form of the new Kenzo Biker. Described in the show notes as a futuristic biker boot inspired by motocross, the boot is teetering on over-the-top, but in a good way. The leather style features a silver metal nameplate at the toe and large silver rivet detail along the calf and upper. A large graphic “Kenzo Paris” logo takes up much of the front of the calf.
MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti took the fashion crowd underground to Milan’s red metro line for its fall/winter 2024 runway show. For his footwear range, Giorgetti unveiled a new Mary Jane in brushed calfskin with lug sole, which featured a roller buckle and metal buckle with MSGM logo. But, the collection’s cozier shoe option stood out from the rest. Indeed, these faux fur mules with leather bottoms are the more wearable cousin to Dsquared2’s Sasquatch boot, offering a slipper-like, sitting by the fireplace, feel to the fluffy and fun style.
The shoes that caught everyone’s attention in Paris came via multiple pairs of inflated rubber pull-on stretch boots from Rick Owens. Done in collaboration with London designer Straytukay, the style was featured on the runway in black, forest green, eggshell, burgundy, and brown animal print colorways. The question still remains if the alien-like shape will make it to production, but this could be the American designer’s next hit shoe.
Exploring the idea of uniform dressing for her fall ’24 collection, Sacai designer Chitose Abe seems to suggest that these new furry boots could be in your essential wardrobe rotation next season. The platform boot style features a white and brown long-haired fur upper (a black version was also seen on the runway) that’s paired with Abe’s signature exaggerated sole. Only time will tell if this new boot becomes a part of men’s uniforms this fall.
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