Canali Chills Out
Mention the name Canali in menswear circles and tailoring comes to mind. That’s reasonable: The Brianza, Italy-based brand, which is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, produces an exceptional suit. Although its reputation is well earned, Canali didn’t start by making tailored clothing. Its first product was a raincoat—an essential element of the everyday wardrobe. And now, in an increasingly casual world, the label is returning to its roots, embracing a more easygoing take on getting dressed each morning.
For Stefano Canali, CEO and the third generation of the family to run the business, the shift away from formality and toward a luxurious interpretation of the entire wardrobe—casual items included—was meticulously planned. “The change was first conceived during the pandemic,” he says. “But it was really executed in 2023 for the autumn/winter collection.” Summer 2024, then, is the second outing for Canali’s new idea.
The company calls it “gentleness”—a deliberate declaration of no, grazie to the loud, in-your-face styling prevalent in runway fashion. There’s still a sense of luxury and craftsmanship, of course, but now those high-end fabrics and time-honored techniques are deployed to make clothes for men with more than work in mind.
“We tend to think more about attitude than age brackets these days,” says Canali. He mentions the double-faced clothes introduced last fall and continued in this latest collection. They’re a lot of work—and quite expensive—to create, but it makes for garments that are both fully reversible and just a little different from the norm. “We ended up selling those pieces to every age group from 60-somethings to 20-somethings,” he says. They’re for men who are “attracted to very well made, luxurious, and comfortable pieces.”
Another sign of Canali’s bold new evolution is the use of knitwear, leather, and laid-back items, like trucker jackets, that break up the formal silhouette. Trousers, meanwhile, elevate the look while remaining rooted in relaxation thanks to a fuller cut.
What about those suits? Well, they aren’t gone entirely—and rightfully never will be. “We're still convinced that the shape of a jacket is the shape in which a man looks best,” Canali says. “It’s just how you execute that shape that makes all the difference nowadays. By changing materials, the construction, even the proportions, you end up with a completely different vibe.”
Instead of feeling overly slick or stuffy, Canali’s more tailored pieces follow the light-and-airy spirit of contemporary Mediterranean sartorialism, with minimal construction and breezy blends of linen, silk, and cotton in pale, off-duty colors. Could you wear them to the office this summer? Absolutely. But you’d be better off saving them for something more special, so they can remain separated—both physically and spiritually—from the drudgery of the daily commute.
Opening loop fashion credits: Coat ($3,060), shirt ($395), sweater ($940), and trousers ($520) by Canali; Earrings ($280), diamond band ring ($2,100), blue topaz signet ring ($560), ruby band ring ($560), and citrine signet ring ($525) by Eliburch Jewelry.
Photos: Ryan Slack
Styling: Alfonso Fernandez Navas
Grooming: Devra Kinery using Dior Forever Foundation
Model: Amaury Valero at Next Models
Contributing Visual Director: James Morris
Executive Producer/Director: Dorenna Newton
Video Editor: Josh Archer @therealjosharcher
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