Brandon Maxwell RTW Spring 2024
Brandon Maxwell’s ready-to-wear has emotional power.
The designer has always been one to self-reflect, endearingly lay it all out on the table and display his truly remarkable craft through luxury garments.
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During a preview of his spring collection, Maxwell said, “I drape the clothes on the body — I don’t come from a place of specific inspiration each season, but it’s very much about what I’m going through in my life, and I work through it with the clothes. I think in the end, the thing I wanted to say is that it’s this push-pull between freedom and restraint, consideration and disregard, and destruction and creativity. That’s evident in the clothing.”
Over the summer, the designer said he felt especially creative, his love of design further invigorated. He poured these emotions, and more, directly into the clothing, expanding the intersection between hard and soft, confidence and sensuality, into a standout collection with elegant minimalist codes.
For instance, his show-opening cowl-neck white dress with wrapped silver belt, or signature black tailored blazer that was wrapped under and floated over sheer black layers. Leather, too, played into the sensibility, as seen in a dark brown skirt decorated with tiny bows (others had tonal leather d-ringed paillettes) and paired with a snug gray cashmere cardigan, sleeves wrapped around the bust.
“I think there’s a very personal sensuality to it,” he said of the elongated, draped, wrapped and enveloped fluid silhouettes, present in viscose knit, wool-silk and sheer jersey fabrications. It’s hard to pick a standout — they were all winners — but a firey red caped gown made a strong impression, ditto to a patchwork d-ring skirt crafted out of “little bits of everything in the collection,” which continued to uphold his sensibility of softness in movement, with hints of hard edge.
He continued to hit the mark on plush knits, white shirting, wool-silk jackets; tailoring (a great cape jacket), new big leather bags (noted to be an important category for his future retail expansion) and ultracool frayed jeans with metallic inserts expanded nods to classic Brandon Maxwell.
In lieu of a darkly lit setting, Maxwell debuted the collection in a bright, white “room-within-a-room” inside TriBeCa’s Andrew Kreps Gallery, and asked guests to limit phone use (some abided, others didn’t, but that’s beside the point) to create a serene moment that matched his rtw ethos.
“I think ultimately, I want to make clothes that people wear in their lives and make their own moments in,” he said. There are loads of gorgeous options to choose from.
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Launch Gallery: Brandon Maxwell RTW Spring 2024
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