Blumarine Resort 2025: Dancing on Her Own
The creative future of Blumarine remains uncertain. The sudden departure of Walter Chiapponi after just one season put the ball back in the hands of the in-house design team, which is likely to continue to oversee the collections at the brand for longer than expected while Marco Marchi, sole administrator of parent company Eccellenze Italiane Holding, ponders the right next move.
But the Blumarine woman has no time or energy to waste. The muse of this collection is someone who’s taking matters into her own hands, judging by the beauty pageant theme running through the lineup and accented by crystal tiaras and sashes spelling “Bellissima” in Blumarine’s distinctive italics font. According to the interpretation of the design team, she proclaimed herself as such, rather than being described as “beautiful” by someone else.
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The move wanted to symbolically reshift the focus back onto the consumer as well as on the essence of the brand, which is centered on a romantic ethos but also a carefree sense of frivolity and playfulness. The collection mirrored this with uncomplicated silhouettes inspired by the ‘90s, candy colors and prints reprising staple motifs of the label, such as roses, ribbons and leopard patterns.
The Lolita-like vibe of mischievous sensuality was expressed via bell-shaped mini frocks and skirts; short slip dresses in solid colors or printed with florals, punctuated by rhinestones; vichy bralettes with matching culottes, and the brand’s signature knits rendered in marshmallow-y hues and trimmed with marabou.
The nods to the world of lingerie were reinforced with laced shirts with pompom details, printed bodysuits and even a commercial rendition of the logoed satin robes that are traditionally distributed to models backstage at Blumarine shows.
As this can’t be considered a transitional collection setting the ground for the brand’s next chapter since the author of it is still TBD, the design team was smart in referencing the company’s core codes. Yet it’s clear the exercise can’t last too long, and a sharper viewpoint will be needed to rewrite Blumarine’s relevancy for today.
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Launch Gallery: Blumarine Resort 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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