Behind H&M Foundation, HKRITA’s Latest Recycled Leather Project ‘reProLeather’
H&M Foundation and the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel have claimed a research breakthrough in leather recycling technology.
In the research phase, the partners created an alternative binder to synthetic leather in the recycled leather process. Today, polyvinyl chloride, or PVC, and polyurethane, or PU, are the most popular synthetic leathers and are derived from crude oil. Moreover, these materials are often used as binders when residual fiber scraps of leather are shredded for recycling.
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A joint program under H&M Foundation and HKRITA called “Planet First” is looking to deliver a biodegradable and recyclable leather sans synthetics. The program used to be called “Recycling Revolution” but was renamed in 2019. Its mission still serves to transform solutions with the planet in mind.
The latest research breakthrough comes from a project titled “reProLeather” and involves a new technology that separates the chromium VI (toxins that come from chrome tanning) from the shredded leather fibers to create a new bio-based alternative to traditional PU and PVC binders. The free chromium is transformed into a soluble salt, and the separated leather fibers react with binders such as sugar or protein under mild conditions and combine with raw collagen fibers to form a new leather.
Using this method, the reProLeather researchers successfully restructured post-consumer leather fibers into leather sheets in the research stage. HKRITA is now seeking industry partners to “optimize production properties” and “enhance functions,” according to the institute. More information can be found on either partner’s website. Already, the project has drawn funding support from the Hong Kong government, H&M Group and Burberry Asia Limited. The project is slated to wrap in 2024, according to the foundation’s website.
H&M Foundation has already funded solutions in the recycling space, among them its “Green Machine,” which is the first technology that can separate blended textiles at scale. Fashion brand Monki and denim manufacturer Isko are among those who purchased the solution.
On the research achievement, H&M Foundation’s strategy lead Christiane Dolva said in a statement, “As a philanthropic change agent for the entire industry, we take risks to unlock needed solutions with the ambition to find technologies that can contribute to a planet-positive fashion future. I’m always open to sharing our findings openly with others, to find industry actors ready to adopt bold innovations and reProLeather could be one of these solutions. I hope to see it scale soon.”
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