A Beauty Editor's Step-By-Step Guide To Exfoliating Your Face
Of all the questions I get asked as a beauty editor, there are a few that always prevail. The first is how to use retinol, the gold standard ingredient which, despite its unwavering popularity, can be one of the trickiest to master. The second is the age at which to consider botox, not to mention the best aestheticians for the job. And the third: do you really need to exfoliate?
There's a reason why the latter still plagues our beauty discourse. Perhaps y0u're scarred from former years of abrasive daily scrubs that stripped, pummelled, pricked and damaged the skin barrier, or those in the Gen-Z bracket may have turned to the newer, buzzier chemical exfoliants (think glycolic and salicylic acid), playing DIY dermatologist only to suffer a case of dreaded overzealous 'overexfoliation'.
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But for some, this skincare step really is the missing ticket in the quest for a glowing, healthier-looking complexion. Here, we asked consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne about the basics of exfoliation and the best skincare ingredients to bookmark.
Is it important to exfoliate?
First things first, skincare rules aren't the same for everyone (your skin is about as unique as your finger print, after all) meaning what might work for some isn't the always going to be the answer for others.
The same applies when it comes to exfoliation: it's not necessarily an important step for everyone. Quick recap: exfoliating your face is the process of removing dead skin cells that build up on the surface of the skin to help accelerate skin cell turnover (producing new skin cells); these dead skin cells not only cause your skin to lose its luminosity and inhibit the production of new skin cells but can result in acne and breakouts.
As Dr Craythorne explains, 'it's important to understand your skin type and whether you actually need extra assistance with exfoliation. For some, their skin turnover rate is pretty perfect and, actually, exfoliating the skin might be a problem or aggravate the skin barrier,' she says. 'Those who have rosacea, for example, might even find exfoliating will only exacerbate their skin complaints.'
Meanwhile, for some, exfoliation will prove a salve to avoid acne and spots. 'Some will get a build-up of the stratum corneum (skin barrier) which is the outermost part of the skin, which can clog the pores and cause spots. And, if there's a slower turnover of cells, it can lead to dullness, fine lines and loss of radiance.' A lack of skin cell turnover can also cause hyperpigmentation to worsen, which causes darker patches of skin on the dermis. This is where exfoliation comes in to help accelerate skin cell turnover and remove dead skin cells and build-up.
How should you exfoliate your face?
Generally speaking, there are two ways to exfoliate. The first is via chemical exfoliants (like glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid) which help the the skin cells turn over more quickly. Then there are physical scrubs (see: the saccharine scrub from your teenage years). Though in a former life, the particles in the scrubs could damage the skin barrier and cause micro-tears, the latest tech has proved that not all are created equal and some really can work wonders for the skin.
As to how, this depends on your skin type, as Dr Craythorne explains. 'Some of us can cope with harsh exfoliation using chemical exfoliators like alpha hydroxy acids or physical exfoliators which can be very helpful for the skin turnover. But actually, for others, they might need a much more gentle exfoliation, like a lactic acid rather than a glycolic acid.'
Most dermatologists advise using active ingredients like chemical exfoliants as part of your evening routine, while physical scrubs are usually applied in the morning.
What are the best ingredients and formulas for exfoliation?
There is no one-size-fits-all approach, but when it comes to exfoliation, less is usually more. 'One of my favourite chemical exfoliants and topicals is retinoic acid, which is a prescription grid retinoid. This is something that I use routinely on patients who have a slower turnover of cells caused by age and photo damage as it's a powerful antioxidant as well as an exfoliating agent,' says Dr Craythorne.
'Other alpha hydroxy acids come second to that (glycolic acid or certain lactic acids) but for me a chemical exfoliant is more important than a physical exfoliant - particularly those with lifters or salt scrubs - unless you're using it on the body,' explains Dr Craythorne. That's especially true if you have sensitive skin. 'Abrasive scrubs are non discriminatory; they scrub at any piece of the skin barrier whereas chemical exfoliants are more controlled and targetted,' she adds. While it's not a complete no-go zone to exfoliate if you do have sensitive skin, you do need to proceed with caution and look to ingredients like lactic acid and mandelic acid which are more gentle on the skin.
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