We Asked Experts the Right Way to Wash Wool Sweaters

Sweaters and thick-knit clothing have a reputation for being difficult to clean – and for good reason. From shrinking in the wash to general disfiguration or even a pilling disaster, there’s a lot that can go wrong when maintaining your favorite winter wool.

Now, don’t panic — chances are you haven’t ruined your sweaters yet. It is important, however, to be gentle with them when washing to ensure you maintain your favorite pieces year after year. Wool isn’t like every other fabric. It requires gentle handling — though this isn’t to say it can’t be done at home. Yes, you can shell out the cash for dry cleaning, but there’s no need to waste your money when there is a solution to all your sweater weather woes. Not to mention, the dry cleaning process often involves chemical solvents instead of water to wash the clothes, which can be very harsh on fine wool.

So, what's the best way to wash our coziest winter sweaters properly? We spoke with experts so you never have a honey-I-shrunk-the-kids moment again.

Washing Tips

Hand Wash vs. Machine Wash

Your mom may have warned you about throwing sweaters in the dryer, but the wash can be just as much of a dice roll. Technically, you can wash your wool in the washing machine, but you ought to be careful – make sure you only use cold water and a gentle tumble cycle, to not cause the fibers to tighten together and shrink. Nobody wants a doll-sized sweater.

To fully avoid any mishaps, Catherine Morrissey, President of White + Warren, recommends hand-washing instead. The best way to do this is to fill up a tub with cold water and add 1 to 2 capfuls of a wool-friendly detergent. Then, submerge the sweater in the water for approximately one minute. Be careful not to let it soak for too long, as you don’t want your wool to retain too much water. Take the sweater out, squeeze out the water, and lay it flat to dry on a clean towel. To remove excess water, roll the towel up from the bottom and press gently, says Morrissey.

Full Washes Aren’t Always Necessary

The great thing about wool is that it doesn’t need to be washed after every wear like other garments. If you don’t have any noticeable odors or unsightly stains, it can be worn as many as 5 times between washes, according to Morrissey. Some people even prolong washes far longer, such as Brice Pattison, VP of Menswear at AYR who recommends washing your sweaters at the end of each season.

Spot Removal Tips

For those in-between moments or tricky stains, spot treatments are recommended to keep your sweaters looking as pristine as the day you bought them. Simply dilute your preferred wool-safe detergent in cool water and dab on the stain, rinsing out periodically and drying with a fabric cloth. If that doesn’t do the trick, you can try a slightly harsher mixture of alcohol, white vinegar, and water and continue to dab until you reach the desired effect, according to Pattison.

Washing Mistakes to Avoid

Water Temperature

Using hot water to clean your sweaters is the cardinal sin of wool maintenance and care. Washing in cold or lukewarm water helps to avoid shrinking, so it is always a safe bet, no matter if you’re hand washing or throwing in the machine. Hot water causes the wool to absorb more water which in turn causes the drying process to be more taxing on the wool fibers, which, in short, is the main cause behind your shrinking mishaps.

Tips

Be sure to not only wash with cold water, but also air dry whenever possible – and always avoid the rough tumble of a drying machine.

Drying Methods

How you dry your clothes is almost as important as how you wash them – something I hate to admit I didn’t learn until my mid-twenties. For wool and other thick-knit materials, you should never wring or twist the sweater to get excess moisture out after washing, as it will distort the shape once dried.

If you are hand-washing, simply “rinse with cold water until the sweater is free of detergent,” says Pattison. “Then squeeze the sweater gently to expel water and dry flat on a towel. If you need to remove extra moisture, you can lay your sweater flat on top of a towel, roll the towel up, and squeeze and unroll to dry.”

Last, but certainly not least, Pattison advises to never hang your sweaters, especially if they are still damp from the wash. This will also distort the shape and create an unsightly “gargoyle shoulder” effect. As for storage (especially when putting away between seasons) try keeping your knits in a breathable cotton dust bag to offer the best protection, says Morrissey.

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