I Asked 4 Chefs To Name the Best Mayo—They All Said the Same Brand
As a Southerner, the answer didn't surprise me.
Simply Recipes / Photo Illustration by Wanda / Getty Images
Some foods are just more divisive than others. I’m not sure what it is about mayonnaise, but I think it’s probably the most controversial condiment. There’s the never-mayo crowd who would rather eat a dry sandwich than one that had seen a smear of mayonnaise, and then there are the fanatics, for whom a burger just doesn’t hit the spot unless it’s got a big dollop of the good stuff oozing out of the sides.
Among those die-hards, determining the best brand is its own heated contest. So, I chatted with a few chefs to find out if there’s a common thread among pros when it comes to the embattled aioli. Here’s what I found.
The Panel of Mayo Afficianados
Dale Ford: Executive Chef of Devils Backbone Distilling Co.
Mark Bolchoz: Executive Chef & Culinary Director of Italian Concepts, The Indigo Road Hospitality Group + Indaco in Charleston, Atlanta, Charlotte, and Greenville; Colletta in Atlanta and Raleigh, and Luminosa in Asheville, North Carolina
Travis Kirkley: Executive Chef of Oak Steakhouse
Dan Gonzalez: Executive Chef of Winona’s
Simply Recipes / Photo Illustration by Wanda / Getty Images
The Best Mayonnaise According to Chefs
As expected, there was some division among the chefs I spoke to, but most of them called out one brand as the top dog: Duke’s Mayonnaise. Having lived most of my life in Virginia, I’m well familiar with the winner.
Eugenia Duke created her eponymous mayo in 1917 for sandwiches that she sold to soldiers at Fort Sevier in Greenville, South Carolina. Realizing what a goldmine she had struck, she started her own mayonnaise brand, which she eventually sold to Richmond, Virginia-based C.F. Sauer in 1929, and it’s been made here in Richmond (where I’m based) ever since.
Devil’s Backbone Distilling Co. Executive Chef Dale Ford says Duke’s is part of his culinary memories from childhood and early career. “Growing up, it was always in our refrigerator at home,” says Ford. “And then professionally, I remember the first mentor chef who had a strong conviction that he only used Duke’s Mayo in his kitchens. That was over 30 years ago, and I am still a big fan today.”
Ford adds that he wouldn’t think of making the summertime classic, tomato pie, without Duke’s—the key ingredient.
For Chef Mark Bolchoz, the journey looked a little different. “Thanks to my dad’s slightly impoverished upbringing, we did grow up eating a good bit of Miracle Whip,” he admits. Now, he says, “It will always be Duke’s.”
What’s So Great About Duke’s Mayonnaise
According to the chefs I talked to, Duke’s has two big things going for it—versatility and twang. From potato salad to chocolate cake, Duke’s is excellent at delivering moisture and richness, binding recipes together while providing a subtle layer of flavor.
“I use Duke’s for a ton of applications,” says Executive Chef Travis Kirkley. “One of my favorites is using it as a base for marinades. It’s super stable, so you can emulsify other liquids and/or seasonings and marinate your chicken, beef, pork, or just about anything before cooking.”
It’s the little pop of acid (aka twang), that keeps Kirkley coming back for more. “It has the right tartness and twang to complement almost any dish. I also appreciate that the list of ingredients is short and sweet and to the point.” For him, the mayo is a staple at work and home.
As a quintessentially Southern ingredient, it’s pretty common to see Duke’s called out by name on menus in the South, but it’s got a foothold in New York, too, thanks in part to Dan Gonzalez, Executive Chef of Winona’s.
“We use it in the restaurant as the base for our Harissa Aioli to dip crispy fingerling potatoes in,” says Gonzalez. “We were making our own aioli and there's just no way to get that Southern magic that you get from Duke’s!"
Read the original article on Simply Recipes.
