Andersson Bell RTW Spring 2024

Sandra Salibian

19 June 2023 at 2:19 pm·2-min read

Contrasts are etched in the DNA of Seoul-based label Andersson Bell, since designer Dohun Kim launched his brand as a combination of Korean and Scandinavian culture.

So there were no surprises when Kim marked his Milan runway debut and the 10^th anniversary of his label with a collection that patchworked references and codes in eclectic urban looks, ranging from military and utilitarian aesthetics to denim wear and crafty touches.

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“I drew inspiration from my childhood memories of searching for denim and military vintage clothing,” said the designer in a preview. “Additionally, I wanted to present garments that can be worn in everyday life by everyone.”

In Kim’s lexicon, that means far from ordinary: his lineup stood out for its experimental approach, which was exalted by the contrast with the lavish interiors and massive chandeliers of the historic Società del Giardino location, where the show was staged.

Frayed jeans dissolved into cargo pants or were mixed with camouflage pleated skirts; tailoring was harnessed with multiple pockets for functionality; knits had distressed effects; bomber jackets, blazers and trench coats were layered one over the other and merged in a single outerwear piece; a roomy anorak collaged magazine clippings for a flashy pattern, while feminine see-through tie-dye dresses with lace inserts took a casual spin ruched with drawstrings.

Denim pieces stole the spotlight, like the juxtaposition of different strips of fabric to create striped effects in zippered denim jackets and miniskirts or the weaved construction that was enhanced with integrated belts.

Hand-knitted crochet pieces added a textural counterpoint and a delicate, crafty touch to the bold collection, which was dotted by different renditions of the Vaso bag, aptly carrying fresh flowers in its sinuous shape.

Launch Gallery: Andersson Bell RTW Spring 2024

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