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Why you're wrong about the Algarve

Rota Vicentina , Algarve, Portugal
Rota Vicentina , Algarve, Portugal

This summer, the Algarve is our best chance of a sun-soaked European getaway, with Portugal planted firmly on the UK’s travel green list and the Portuguese government having now lifted its travel ban to allow British holidaymakers to fly to the country from May 17. No doubt you’ll gravitate towards the Algarve’s Blue Flag beaches and glitzy resorts, but look beyond and you’ll find a region full of surprises.

Where once people ventured only as far as pillow-soft sands backed by whitewashed fishing-villages-turned-tourist-traps, visitors are now being drawn out to the Algarve’s more diverse landscapes. Up in the pine-scented Monchique mountains, Roman spa towns and secluded eco-resorts await; while wetlands home to straw-legged flamingos beckon in the Ria Formosa. Elsewhere, the barely visited western coast of the Algarve shelters windswept walking routes through Vicente’s natural parks dotted with villages.

These fiercely protected ecosystems have become a haven for bird-watchers who flock, binoculars in hand, to see over 400 species. Further out to sea, past the Algarve’s coveted surf breaks, there’s a marine paradise to discover too, where bottlenose dolphins play in the wake of boats and humpback whales breach the surface on their annual quest to cross the Atlantic. Then there’s the Algarve vineyards – the secret sister of the mighty Douro Valley – that produce fine wines perfect for pairing with dishes in the Algarve’s new Michelin-starred eateries.

For decades, the Algarve has been somewhat unfairly painted as a cultural wasteland overtaken by the whims of Brits abroad – a reputation the region is working hard to shed. True, Albufeira may be filled with rowdy Irish bars and gift shops selling sardine-embroidered aprons, but in reality you don’t have to travel far to witness true Algarve life. It’s present in the tiny villages where artisans hand-paint traditional pottery, and in the family-run cork factories and slow-paced Moorish towns that lie further east of Faro.

That’s not to say there isn’t a place for the Algarve’s stereotypical charms on your summer holiday, though. After all, the pristine sands of Falesia and Rocha are famous for a reason and golfers will always belong on the sun-blessed courses, in the same way that families will never tire of the region’s all-inclusive seaside resorts. But 2021 is all about change. So, take some inspiration from these Algarve holiday ideas that blend typical sun, sea and sand with a dose of the unexpected.

No kids allowed

Embrace the tranquility

Set on a cliff overlooking Praia da Rocha, the adult-only Bela Vista is ideal for a peaceful seaside break. Built in 1918, the boutique hotel retains many of its original features, from painted wooden ceilings to a stained-glass turret. Gaze out to sea while lazing around the palm-shaded pool, or book a treatment at the L’Occitane Spa, which has couples’ suites. The concierge can arrange a sunset boat cruise followed by a meal at Bela Vista’s Michelin-starred restaurant.

Double rooms at Bela Vista Hotel and Spa (00 351 282 460 280; hotelbelavista.net) cost from £412 per night.

Bela Vista Hotel and Spa, Algarve, Portugal
Bela Vista Hotel and Spa, Algarve, Portugal

Take your time

There’s no better place to take a deep breath and de-stress than the Algarve, home to five-star spa resorts and stunning scenery. Iberian Escapes offers a deluxe week-long wellness retreat at Quinta do Lago’s swanky Conrad Algarve. You’ll be pampered with spa treatments, indulge in meals from Michelin-starred chefs, and enjoy your own personal wellness consultation. Highlights include eco-biking in Ria Formosa, hiking the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail and a hands-on market-to-table cooking experience.

The seven-night Algarve Discovery and Wellness Escape (00 351 289 009 580; iberian-escapes.com) costs from £2,129 per person, including accommodation, activities, and some meals.

Conrad Algarve, Portugal
Conrad Algarve, Portugal
Back to nature

Escape to the mountains

Head to the Monchique Mountains, a marvel of forested peaks and Roman spa towns loved for their healing waters. Days here are made for hiking and cycling among the pines and oaks to the 3,000-ft Foia, the Algarve’s highest peak, which showcases panoramic coastal views. Stay at the eco-friendly Monchique Resort & Spa with its lavish pools, four restaurants and complimentary activities ranging from yoga to trail running.

Double rooms at the Monchique Resort and Spa (00 351 282 240 100; monchiqueresort.com) cost from £55 per night, including breakfast.

Monchique Mountains, Algarve, Portugal
Monchique Mountains, Algarve, Portugal

Go birding

A kaleidoscope of birds inhabit the Algarve’s wetlands, lagoons, saltpans and chunky sea cliffs. While orange-beaked storks make their nests atop ancient churches, Golden Eagles can be seen swooping along Sagres’s migratory bird highway and flamingos wade through the Ria Formosa. Take a tour with a birding expert from A Rocha Life to learn about this staggering avifauna. Their week-long trip includes spotting passerine species in Monchique, great bustards in Castro Verde and visiting rare nesting grounds in the Alvor dunes.

A Rocha Life’s (00 351 282 968 380; arochalife.com) seven-night Birds, Birds, Birds! tour costs from £905 per night, including accommodation, meals and guide. Excludes flights.

A kaleidoscope of birds inhabit the Algarve’s wetlands, lagoons, saltpans and chunky sea cliffs
A kaleidoscope of birds inhabit the Algarve’s wetlands, lagoons, saltpans and chunky sea cliffs

See the sea life

Skim across the waves on a RIB boat to discover the Algarve’s rich marine life. You’ll likely spot common and bottlenose dolphins dancing through the waves and, if you’re lucky, porpoises and sharks. At certain times of the year, it’s even possible to catch a glimpse of migrating orca and humpback whales. Wildwatch runs an explorer trip led by a marine biologist that heads further out to sea for more diverse marine sightings.

A three-hour Wildlife Explorer tour with Wildwatch Algarve (00 351 282 422 373; wildwatch.pt) costs from £55 for adults, £39 per child. Encounters are guaranteed or you’ll get a full refund.

Skim across the waves on a RIB boat to discover the Algarve’s rich marine life
Skim across the waves on a RIB boat to discover the Algarve’s rich marine life

Discover hidden coastal wonders

Sea-sculpted over centuries, the Algarve’s multicoloured cliffs are its geological crown jewel. The highlight is Ponta da Piedade, which often graces the cover of guidebooks for its sea pillars, jagged rock formations and arches that rise from the water. Take a trip from Lagos along the coast in a motor boat, ducking into hidden coves and grottos where seabirds nest, to sail right into the heart of Ponta da Piedade.

Blue Fleet (00 351 911 963 309; bluefleet.pt) offers a four-hour Ponta da Piedade trip, with lunch; adults £43, children £21.50.

Blue Fleet Ponta da Piedade boat trip, Algarve, Portugal
Blue Fleet Ponta da Piedade boat trip, Algarve, Portugal
Foodie forays

Test your tastebuds

The Algarve has a burgeoning gourmet food scene, boasting six of Portugal’s 28 Michelin-starred eateries. Dedicated foodies can delve into the luxury dining experience on a six-night foodie experience with Iberian Escapes, which includes meals at three Michelin-starred restaurants as well as wine and craft brewery tastings. You’ll also spend a day with a clam picker and take part in a Michelin-star secrets cooking class. The trip includes a tranquil catamaran cruise accompanied by local liqueurs and regional sweet treats.

Iberian Escapes’ (00 351 289 009 580; iberian-escapes.com) six-night Michelin Foodie Experience costs from £1,704 per person and includes accommodation, activities and Michelin-star dining experiences.

Dedicated foodies can delve into the luxury dining experience on a six-night foodie experience with Iberian Escapes
Dedicated foodies can delve into the luxury dining experience on a six-night foodie experience with Iberian Escapes

Pop and pour

While Portugal’s vine-covered Douro Valley steals most of the thunder, the Algarve has a wine culture of its own to explore. Protected by mountains, the region’s dry, toasty climate and fertile soils combine to produce a variety of red, white and rosé bottles. Head to one of the Algarve’s wineries, which include Cliff Richard’s Adega do Cantor brand, for a tour or tasting session. Algarve Food Experience offers lunch at a vineyard paired with wines and an insight into the production process.

A Lunch at the Vineyard tour with Algarve Food Experience (00 351 308 808 640; algarvefoodexperience.com) costs from £47pp and is adults only.

Explore through food

From grilled sardines to plump olives and custardy pasteis de nata, the Algarve is a gastronomic extravaganza, whether you dine in local tavernas or Michelin-starred eateries. Dedicated foodies will love Iberian Escape’s week-long tour that blends the region’s food, landscapes and culture. Enjoy olive oil farm tastings and a sweet workshop, as well as a market-to-table cooking class with a private chef. You’ll also take a Rio Formosa boat trip and feast on tapas in the fishing town of Olhao.

The seven-day Taste, Cook & Experience the Real Algarve tour from Iberian Escapes (00 351 289 009 580; iberian-escapes.com) costs from £912 per person, including meals and activities. Excludes flights.

Foodies will also love Iberian Escape’s week-long tour that blends the region’s food, landscapes and culture
Foodies will also love Iberian Escape’s week-long tour that blends the region’s food, landscapes and culture
Classic beach breaks

Unwind on golden sands

Further west in the Algarve, Praia de Alvor is the place to stretch out on the sand and watch windsurfers zip across the sea. Stay in the Pestana Alvor South Beach hotel, which is set in landscaped pool gardens and lies less than a hundred steps from the powdery sand. It’s worth spending at least a day on nearby Praia da Rocha too, which is scattered with mammoth rock formations. As the sun sets, return to the Pestana’s Sea Deck restaurant, which sits right on the Alvor dunes.

Double rooms at Pestana Alvor South Beach (00 351 218 442 001; pestana.com) cost from £97 per night.

Pestana Alvor South Beach hotel, Algarve, Portugal
Pestana Alvor South Beach hotel, Algarve, Portugal

Appease everyone

Orange-red rock faces lend Praia da Falesia its name: the Beach of Cliffs. Stretching for six kilometres from Vilamoura’s harbour to Olhos de Agua, it’s one of Portugal’s longest beaches and enjoys both Blue Flag status and hilltop trails. Stay at Pine Cliffs Resort, a mega-luxury oasis complete with kids’ clubs, the Annabel Croft Tennis Academy and a nine-hole golf course. A lift descends from the resort straight onto Praia da Falesia.

A two-bed townhouse at Pine Cliffs Resort (00 351 289 500 100; pinecliffs.com) costs from £179 per night for up to four people.

Mega-luxury oasis Pine Cliffs Resort
Mega-luxury oasis Pine Cliffs Resort

Bask on a private cove

If you prefer your beaches secluded, Vila Vita Parc Resort provides direct access to the pocket-sized Tremocos cove. An almost-hidden clifftop path snakes above, leading all the way to the much wider shores of Armacao de Pera and the lagoon-boardwalk-backed beach of Gale. Built in traditional Portuguese style, the 50-acre Vila Vita Parc complex has tennis courts and infinity pools, plus Portugal’s only Sisley Spa. Its landmark restaurant, Ocean, has two Michelin stars.

Double rooms at Vila Vita Parc (00 351 282 310 100; vilavitaparc.com) cost from £314 per night.

Vila Vita Parc Resort, Algarve, Portugal
Vila Vita Parc Resort, Algarve, Portugal
Family fun

Make a splash

The Algarve is a watery wonderland for kids. Aside from the Atlantic’s rolling waves, there’s a collection of waterparks to let loose in, with kamikaze slides, dizzying chutes and lazy rivers. Chances are, you’ll be within driving distance of the three hot-ticket attractions: Aquashow, Slide & Splash and Aqualand. Aquashow is the largest, famed for having the biggest water coaster in Europe.

A stay at Aquashow Park Hotel (00 351 289 317 550; aquashowpark.com) costs from £323 per night for a family of five, including breakfast and entry to the waterpark.

Aquashow, Algarve, Portugal
Aquashow, Algarve, Portugal

Go private

With its safe, clean sands and over 300 days of annual sunshine, the Algarve has long been a magnet for families. Opt to stay at the Martinhal Quinta Family Resort over an all-inclusive hotel for your own private pool villa, set in a gated garden complex with kid-friendly activities. Think pool slides, a trampoline and games room. The resort lies in the sleek Quinta do Lago complex, just minutes from the beach.

A two-bed family pool villa at Martinhal Quinta Family Resort (00 351 218 507 788; martinhal.com) costs from £1,585 for a family of four for seven nights.

Martinhal Quinta Family Resort, Algarve, Portugal
Martinhal Quinta Family Resort, Algarve, Portugal

Take an adrenaline hit

Spend a day roaming the treetops and dodging paintballs at the Algarve’s Parque Aventura. Strap into a harness and tackle three grades of high-rope courses among the canopies, suitable for varying ages and abilities. Kids can test their nerve by crossing wobbly bridges, rope nets and giant ziplines. Located in a forest just outside of Albufeira, it also has a paintballing zone.

A high-rope course (minimum age four) and paintball package (minimum age 10) at Parque Aventura (00 351 913 185 782; parqueaventura.net) near Albufeira costs from £25 per person.

Parque Aventura, Algarve, Portugal
Parque Aventura, Algarve, Portugal
Adventure highs

Walk the wild west

Ramblers will find plenty to love about the Algarve’s coastal routes, lagoon boardwalks and mountain paths, but it’s the far-removed, wild west coast that really pulls out the stops. The Rota Vicentina network of walking trails criss-cross the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park, where you’ll pass through quiet seaside villages like Carrapateira and Zambujeira. A week-long rambling holiday will take you along dunes and clifftops, to isolated coves and paths lined with Mediterranean flora.

Celtic Trails Walking Holidays (01291 689 774; celtictrailswalkingholidays.co.uk) offers a seven-night Rota Vicentina trip for £710 per person including accommodation and some meals. Excludes flights.

Rota Vicentina, Algarve, Portugal
Rota Vicentina, Algarve, Portugal

Jump to it

For a shot of pure adrenaline, try the Algarve’s most unusual adventure activity: skydiving. The region’s premiere company, Skydive Algarve, is based in Alvor and operates beach jumps from 15,000ft. After an exhilarating freefall, drift back to the coastal dropzone while admiring aerial views of the Algarve. Novices can book a tandem jump and there’s an Accelerated Freefall course if you want to learn how to skydive solo.

Skydive Algarve (skydivealgarve.com) tandem jumps cost from £111; seven-day Accelerated Freefall Packages from £1,663.

Skydive, Algarve, Portugal
Skydive, Algarve, Portugal

Embark on the ultimate getaway

Like your holidays action-packed? Then choose from a range of Algarve adventure tours. Take a six-night break that includes horse riding in Sao Vicente, paddleboarding and snorkelling, plus a sunset jeep safari across the sand dunes. You’ll also get the chance to rock climb and search for dinosaur footprints in Salema. The highlight, though, is spending the night on a sailboat en-route to the far western edge of the Algarve.

Iberian Escapes’ (00 351 289 009 580; iberian-escapes.com) six-night Explore the Wild West Corner of Europe tour starts at £2,745 per person, including accommodation, activities and some meals.

Choose from a range of Algarve adventure tours if you like your holidays action-packed
Choose from a range of Algarve adventure tours if you like your holidays action-packed
Sporty stays

Surf’s up

Head south, away from the world-famous waves of Nazare’s and Peniche’s surf competitions, to enjoy the Algarve’s top surfing spots. The Vicentina Coast and Sagres offer guaranteed year-round waves and excellent surfing schools. Join Tiny Whale’s boutique surf camp to learn from qualified instructors, based in a countryside location near Lagos. The trip features five days of surf coaching, accommodation in a chic pool lodge, chef-cooked meals and yoga.

The Tiny Whale (00 351 913 665 446; tinywhalesurflodge.com) offers a seven-night boutique surf camp from £718pp in a shared room with surf coaching, equipment and meals.

Head south to enjoy the Algarve’s top surfing spots
Head south to enjoy the Algarve’s top surfing spots

Tee off

Consistently named Europe’s top golf destination, the Algarve has over 30 courses, many designed by golfing royalty like Sir Henry Cotton, as well as academies led by PGA pros. Book a break at Quinta do Lago’s golf club, home of the Paul McGinley Golf Academy and three championship courses set between pine forests and sand dunes. Its award-winning 18-hole South Course overlooks a lagoon in the Ria Formosa.

A seven-night break with Your Golf Travel (0800 043 6644; yourgolftravel.com) at Quinta do Lago costs from £649 per person including accommodation, breakfast and five rounds of golf.

Quinta do Lago Golf Club, Algarve, Portugal
Quinta do Lago Golf Club, Algarve, Portugal

Get served

Tennis players are drawn to the Algarve for its warm, dry climes and professional coaches. Academies abound, including the Annabel Croft Centre at Pine Cliffs and junior tennis camps run by the likes of Judy Murray. The Vale do Lobo resort is a favourite with its 10 hard and four synthetic courts, plus pro coaching. Players get use of the centre’s pool and gym, plus there’s mini coaching for kids aged five upwards.

Vale do Lobo (00 51 289 353 000; valedolobo.com) offers a four-night tennis coaching holiday starting at £547 for two people, including accommodation and six hours of daily coaching.

Pine Cliffs Resort, Algarve, Portugal
Pine Cliffs Resort, Algarve, Portugal
Culture fix

Tour Moorish Tavira

While much of the Portuguese culture has been scrubbed from tourist hotspots like Albufeira, Tavira remains a bastion of Algarve history. The town lies in the Algarve’s lesser-known eastern region along the Gilao River, which is straddled by a Roman bridge. Wander labyrinthine cobbled streets and shaded squares lined with Moorish architecture, then take in the hilltop view from Tavira’s crumbling castelo. In keeping with the cultural theme, stay in a 16th-century convent that’s been converted into an opulent Pousada in the heart of town.

Double rooms at Pousada Convento Tavira start at £129pn, including breakfast (00 351 210 407 680; pousadas.pt).

Pousada Convento Tavira hotel, Algarve, Portugal
Pousada Convento Tavira hotel, Algarve, Portugal

Meet the artisans

Learn about one of the Algarve’s oldest craft industries: its intricate, world-famous pottery. Prevalent since the Middle Ages, this dying tradition has been carefully preserved in the Algarve village of Porches. Here, Irish artist Patrick Swift and his Portuguese partner Lima de Freitas founded Porches Pottery, a workshop located in a 17th-century farmhouse-style building. Stop in to see artisans creating one-off tea sets and decorative tiles, each painstakingly hand-painted.

Porches Pottery (porchespottery.com) is open 9am-5pm on weekdays, 10am-4pm Saturdays, closed Sundays.

Porches Pottery, Algarve, Portugal
Porches Pottery, Algarve, Portugal

Navigate Sagres

In the wind-battered western reaches of the Algarve, Sagres draws surfers for its monster waves and visitors to its stone forts that echo Portugal’s nautical past. It was here that Henry the Navigator deployed ships during the Age of Discovery, launched his navigation school and built a grand fortress overlooking the sea. Visit the remains of this 15th-century fort, then head west to Cabo de Sao Vicente Lighthouse, which marks the most south-westerly point in Europe.

South Explorers (southexplorers.pt) offers a three-hour Sagres Fort and Cape St Vincent tour from Lagos; adult £34, child £21.50.

Sagres tour with South Explorers, Algarve, Portugal
Sagres tour with South Explorers, Algarve, Portugal

Discover a corker

Portugal’s most famous product may be its sumptuous port wine, but you might be surprised to learn that the country is also the world’s largest producer of cork. Although much of the production has now shifted north, the Algarve was once the centre of the industry, thanks to the thick forests in the Serra de Monchique and Serra de Caldeirao. Take a tour of the Eco Cork Factory to learn the secrets of cork production, combined with a visit to a cork forest.

A tour of the Eco Cork Factory (eco-corkfactory.com) in Sao Bras de Alportel costs from £12.50.

Cork tree, Portugal
Cork tree, Portugal