Why this hedonistic French gem should be your next city break
Basque in Belle Époque glamour and inimitable coastal culture, says Anthony Peregrine.
Go now
Biarritz is terrific any time. The spot is rooted in both hedonism and robust Basqueness (rugby, pelota, ancestral whaling) with a seam of surfer chic near the top. With a plateful of axoa stew and a glass of irouléguy red from the Bordaxuria domain, it’s a wonderful life. And it’s easier than ever to get there. Flybe (flybe.com) flights are launching from Birmingham and Southampton, Ryanair (ryanair.com) already flies there from Stansted, and easyJet (easyjet.com) goes from Gatwick.
Stay here
In the heart of the Halles district the four-star Hôtel de Silhouette has 17th-century elegance, reviewed and corrected for 21st-century boutique requirements (doubles from £131). Meanwhile, the friendliest family-run option has to be the equally central Hôtel le Saphir (doubles from £78).
Walk here
The coastal walk down from the lighthouse heading into town is one of Europe’s finest urban seaside strolls. Here are the Hôtel du Palais (once base to Napoleon III) and fancy villas from the Belle Époque, underlining Biarritz’s subtext of royalty and foreign nobility. The path zigzags up rocks and cliffs, tiny port inlets and smaller beaches to the Rocher de la Vierge outcrop. End point is the endless Cote des Basques.
See this
The Musée Asiatica is an unmissable private collection of Asian art and history (musee-asiatica.com; £8.50). The big summer show is at the Bellevue centre, celebrating a century since Picasso spent his honeymoon in town, and placing the master “in conversation with” contemporary works by Daniel Buren and Hervé Di Rosa, among others (July 7-Sept 30; biarritz.fr; £7).
Try this
Biarritz was in at the beginning of both European surfing and (continental) European golf. Its le Phare is the second-oldest course in France (golfbiarritz.com). It was base to Arnaud Massy, the only Frenchman ever to have won the Open Championship. Meanwhile, everything you need to know about its surfing opportunities is at surf-biarritz-paysbasque.com.
Shop here
At the Halles market hall, one of the richest in southern France. All Basque abundance – octopus and Bayonne hams hanging like meaty mandolins – is here.
Drink here
Stick by the Halles. Try the Bar Jean (barjean-biarritz.fr) or Les Contrebandiers, part-owned by ex-rugby international Imanol Harinordoquy (halles-biarritz.fr).
Eat here
For its terrace overseeing the sea and first-class fish, it’s Le Bistrot de la Mer (bistrotdelamer.com; menus £23).
Off the map
Hop on a No 13 bus from the centre for the 10-minute ride to the Cité de l’Océan. This enormous centre hosts a gallimaufry of hi-tech experiences to delight most. Just go (citedelocean.com; £11; six-12-year olds £7.50).
