I’ve Stayed at More Than 100 Hotels In Thailand — This Is the One I Keep Returning To

Riverfront villas, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and cocktail-making classes are only the beginning.

Since moving to Thailand more than a decade ago, I've stayed in some (if not most) of Bangkok's best hotels, from brilliant riverside retreats to lovely boutique boltholes in lesser-visited corners. Picking a favorite used to be an impossible feat. In a city that has perfected the art of top-notch hospitality, every other luxury hotel was a contender.

But with the opening of Capella Bangkok at the end of 2021, I had my answer. This hotly anticipated outpost of the renowned Capella group introduced hotel perks the city hadn't yet seen before: villas pitched up right on the Chao Phraya riverfront, where you can watch rainbow-roofed long-tail boats zip past with water sloshing right below your feet. There are balconies fitted with private plunge pools, and the kind of ultra-luxurious yet understated interiors that, until Capella's arrival, no other hotel in the city seemed to get quite right. All this comes wrapped in a low-slung building on a lush estate wedged between the river and the temple-studded Charoenkrung district, which makes the hotel feel blissfully boutique compared to many of its big-buck competitors.

I've lost count of how many times I've visited since my first stay. When I'm in the area — Bangkok's historic quarter, especially its riverside stretch, is my favorite part of the city — I often drop in for lunch on the sun-dappled terrace of the hotel's Thai restaurant, Phra Nakhon. I like to meet friends for cocktails at Stella, the on-site bar that hits the sweet spot between high-glam and cozy. And when I'm in need of a break, I check in for a staycation – a weekend of pool-lolling with those endless river views always reminds me why I fell in love with Bangkok in the first place.

Granted, it's one of Bangkok's priciest hotels (rooms start at $750 in the low season), and the marble-heavy design might not scream “Thailand” in the way some of the more classic properties further down the river do. But it offers plenty of Thai touches to remind you of your whereabouts: jasmine-scented cold towels and coconuts (chicly branded with the hotel's logo) upon arrival and linen-clad staff who have their hyper-attentive service down to a T. The breakfast menu covers all the Thai morning staples — jok porridge, noodle soup, and even mango sticky rice — while the activity schedule leans heavily into local arts and crafts.

If you have the budget for some five-star pampering in Bangkok, few hotels do it better. Read on to find out why Capella Bangkok is one of my very favorite hotels in Thailand.

Capella Bangkok

• From meditation sessions with a local monk to a street-food tour with a well-connected chef, the hotel's concierge team (Capella calls them Culturists) has a little black book packed with unique experiences.

• The hotel hosts a daily Cin Cin Hour with complimentary drinks and nibbles. The location changes between the boudoir-like Stella bar, the Living Room, and the courtyard.

• Snag a table on Phra Nakhon's waterfront terrace during breakfast to watch the Chao Phraya River come to life.

• If you're planning to spend a lot of time at the hotel, it's worth splurging on one of the Verandah rooms, which open to a Jacuzzi tub on their balcony.

The Rooms

Whichever category you book, each of the 101 guest rooms frames a dreamy vignette of life along the Chao Phraya River in its floor-to-ceiling picture windows. The interiors are soothingly simple: all blond woods, a subtle hint of gold, and sleek licks of dark lacquer. Bathrooms feel like miniature wellness retreats, with floors bedecked in creamy travertine, rain showers and bathtubs large enough for two, plus the plushest hooded bathrobes you'll ever wear. Most open to a snug balcony to rivergaze from, while those at the Verandah level come fitted with an outdoor Jacuzzi tub and pillow-strewn sala lounge.

My favorite room type, though, is the villa, of which there are a handful. Perched right on the waterfront, these ultra-spacious hideaways open to private tropical gardens with a teak sala lounge and plunge pool. You'll want to fold open the living room's glass doors to let the breeze flow through and create a giant indoor-outdoor living area where your dedicated Capella Culturist butler can arrange cocktail sessions, in-villa breakfast, or afternoon tea, and — like I did on a recent visit — a private barbecue party with all the bells and whistles.

Food and Drink

The fact that Capella's two restaurants are always busy with locals speaks volumes in a foodie city such as Bangkok. At Côte, which has already earned two Michelin stars, chef Davide Garavaglia (a protégé of Argentine celebrity chef Mauro Colagreco, who conceptualized the menu) draws on produce from Thailand and the French and Italian Rivieras for Mediterranean-tinged fine-dining menus that change almost daily: Expect too-pretty-to-eat creations such as Dover Brittany crab in cigars of grapefruit gelatin and spiny lobster with chanterelles in a silk-like apricot velouté.

Phra Nakhon, with a tree-shaded terrace on the waterfront, hits the spot with real-deal Thai family recipes from every corner of the country, like northeastern som tum papaya salads and coconut-rich curries from the south. Breakfast is also served here, both as an extensive buffet of tropical fruits, dim sum, and pastries and as an a la carte menu of pillowy pancakes, a cheesy croque madame, and a smoked salmon omelette.

Skip dessert at dinner and hit up Stella, a boudoir of a bar hidden behind a heavy wooden door, where cocktails come paired with nightly live jazz and brilliant desserts.

Activities and Amenities

A stay here is as relaxing or active as you decide to make it. The hotel offers a roster of complimentary activities that range from early-morning yoga classes on the riverfront lawn to fit ball workouts and Muay Thai boxing workshops in the well-equipped gym. To balance it out with a little indulgence, there are cocktail classes, wine tastings, and culinary workshops where you can learn to make Thai khanom desserts.

The hotel's concierges (Capella Culturists) can arrange activities around town for an additional fee, including bicycle rides to little-known corners of the Old Town or deep dives into Bangkok’s temples and royal palaces on a tuk-tuk and long-tail-boat tour with an expert guide. And after a day of sightseeing, the hotel’s infinity-edge pool, lined with plush daybeds and linen-draped cabanas, is the perfect spot to cool down.

The Spa

Hidden behind a tropical meditation garden at the heart of the hotel, the Auriga Wellness spa is a hush-hush haven for Thai massages and chakra-balancing sessions that include singing-bowl meditations, Reiki healing, and crystal therapy. For a serious fix-up, the staff can arrange bespoke treatment programs that include macrobiotic meals at Phra Nakhon.

The aquatherapy lounge, fitted with muscle-melting hot baths, massage jets, and a steam room, is accessible to all guests, so it’s worth stopping by even if you haven’t booked a treatment.

Family-friendly Offerings

“Capella” was one of the first words in my son's vocabulary when he was younger, which should give you an idea about how much he loved his first of many stays here. Young guests can look forward to special treats upon arrival and a personalized teepee tent set up in the room. There are kid-sized bathrobes and fluffy slippers, plus child-friendly menus in the restaurants. The daily activity roster includes plenty of options for kids to enjoy, from traditional Thai khon mask-painting workshops (which my son loved on a recent visit) to paper-umbrella-making classes.

Accessibility and Sustainability

The property makes an effort to reduce its environmental footprint. Chefs in all of the restaurants go to great lengths to ensure their suppliers adhere to sustainable farming practices, and many herbs and vegetables are grown in the organic garden behind the hotel. Plastic water bottles and single-use toiletries are banned, and the hotel works with a handful of local Thai charities to support educational programs across the country.

Ramps and elevators to every floor and restaurant ensure guests in wheelchairs can access the spaces. Two of the bedrooms have also been fitted with grab handles and wider entryways to increase accessibility.

Location

The hotel shares its riverside estate in the city’s atmospheric Old Town district with the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, which puts another few bars and restaurants — including the hot-ticket BKK Social Club — within easy reach. Saphan Taksin station, the gateway to Bangkok's boat lines and its handy BTS Skytrain network, will take you about 15 minutes by foot, or hop on the hotel's free shuttle boat, which can also bring you to the sprawling IconSiam shopping mall further up the river. If you've got the cash to splash, a tour on a mahogany-trimmed Hacker-Craft boat is a chic way to spend sunset on the river.

How to Get the Most Value From Your Stay

Rates for a standard room range from $750 in the low season to $900 in the busy period, taxes and service charge not included. The brand doesn't have a guest loyalty program, but Capella Bangkok often announces promotional offers (think complimentary room upgrades and extra nights on the house) on its website. The property is part of both Virtuoso and The Leading Hotels of the World networks, through which you can unlock additional perks such as resort credits, room upgrades, and complimentary breakfasts.