A rose in winter: top 10 to choose from, order and plant as soon as it gets cold
Winter may be on the horizon, but this is the time to order and plant bare-root roses – not to mention other shrubs and trees. The range on offer is far greater and postage costs are lighter on the pocket. Plants are lifted from the rose fields from November onwards and, although they look rather like dead sticks when they arrive, these sleeping beauties rise with renewed vigour once they’re kissed by spring. And they grow away strongly and never look back.
Choosing which roses to grow is the hard part and I’m happy to admit that garden writers don’t know everything, especially when it comes to roses. My first port of call is always Michael Marriott, the technical manager and senior rosarian at David Austin Roses. He’s worked at the headquarters at Albrighton near Wolverhampton for 32 years.
“I arrived at exactly the right time, just two years after the introduction of ‘Graham Thomas’,” he says. This rich-yellow rose, with curvaceous and fully fragrant flowers, prompted a sea change in rose growing. It wooed the public away from dedicated rose gardens full of gaudy, stiff-stemmed hybrid teas and the mixed rose border full of soft colours was born.
Michael is full of praise for David Austin Snr “for sticking to his guns through difficult times in the early years.” Michael’s enthusiasm is legendary; he always tells me that “no other plant has such a beautiful individual flower, a fantastic fragrance, is easy to look after and flowers for five or six months of the year.”
He has promoted English roses across the globe; whenever I email or phone him he’s often at an airport on his way to Japan, America or China where he’s designed and overseen new rose gardens. He’s also responsible for the large rose gardens at Kew Gardens, Hampton Court Palace, Trentham Gardens and Regent’s Park.
“Most of the top varieties do well in a variety of climates,” he says, and he cites the dark red ‘Munstead Wood’, the deep pink ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ and the apricot ‘Lady of Shalott’ as being excellent in almost any circumstances or climate.
“I’ve enjoyed the travelling and I’ve met some of the top people in the horticultural world,” he says. Last year, Michael lectured at Sissinghurst Castle in Kent, and stayed the night at South Cottage. “We were able to see the White Garden in the evening light and it was a glorious morning too, so we had the roses to ourselves.”
Working three days a week has allowed him the freedom to develop a garden near Ludlow and cultivate two allotments with Rosie, his partner, although he’s in demand as a consultant, designer and lecturer.
How to choose and care for roses
Light shade is not a deal-breaker – some roses can manage on four to five hours of sunlight a day (see slide show).
Don’t reject a rose if it flowers only once. It will still give you flowers for four to six weeks in June and July.
If space allows, plant two or three roses of the same type together, leaving 1ft 6in (50cm) between each, so that they form a group. Separate each group by about 3ft (1m) to allow access for deadheading – a thoroughly pleasurable occupation.
Grow roses with perennials, biennials and annuals to lessen the impact and spread of diseases such as black spot. If black spot does occur, collect up leaves on the ground and mulch well to bury any missed leaves and the spores.
When pruning, cut out the older woody stems as these are more likely to harbour pests and diseases. Feed roses the following spring. If black spot is very bad, replace with a healthier rose. Otherwise be lenient.
If you get aphids, don’t spray – aphids feed the birds and beneficial insects. Squash them with your fingers if they bother you.
Never cut back roses during the growing season. Prune in winter. Michael often does his during the Christmas and New Year break.
As a rule, cut the main stems of shrub, old-fashioned and English roses back to about halfway. Michael ignores the rule about cutting above an outward-facing bud, or at an angle.
If the rose has been established for a few years and developed a woody base Michael recommends cutting out all the woody growth to encourage new, vigorous growth.
