There was a notion of transition to Paula Canovas del Vas’ spring collection, inspired by her move to Paris from London and the idea of packing up and moving on. “It’s about being on a journey,” she explained.
The surrealist designer’s shape-shifting creations were styled and restyled by the models as they dressed and undressed themselves and each other to display her creations, many punctuated by herringbone ribbons with which to “wrap” the body, in motion.
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Underneath, each model wore a sheer red bodystocking that matched the art installation of the Instituto Cervantes venue, a series of abstract sculptures that doubled up as clothes horses for garments discarded or yet to be donned.
There were blanket-like pieces, a draped and pleated taffeta gown and a bolero with the look of gift bows, printed tulle designs adorned with a heart motif inspired by Parisian postcards — these were also the starting point for the vivid red backdrop — as well as edgy patchwork denims in new washes and quirky hand knits.
Among the accessories, a crossbody bag to match the voluminous bolero was formed into soft spikes, while pointy collars were tied on with tape. In another manifestation of her unusual ode to Paris, Canovas del Vas’ signature Diablo cloven-toed footwear was offered in a moccasin version for spring.
Like many visionary creatives, the softly spoken designer’s world largely defies interpretation, but with her combination of solid technique and distinctive imagination, Paula Canovas del Vas continues to show she is a designer on the move.
Launch Gallery: Paula Canovas del Vas RTW Spring 2024
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