The Couture Fashion Week kicked off at Paris on 23 January 2023. As per the schedule, Schiaparelli and Dior presented their spring/summer 2023 collections on the first day. Chanel, Valentino, Armani and others are also presented their creations on subsequent days.
On Day 1, Iris van Herpen shunned the traditional runway for a digital presentation. Giambattista Valli presented a collection that showcased gowns in a unique style, with colours referring to the season of spring.
But Schiaparelli grabbed every headline possible for the designs sported by Kylie Jenner and Doja Cat as they arrived for the brand’s spring/summer 2023 couture show. Cat again stole the limelight with a different look at the couture presentation by Viktor & Rolf a couple of days later.
Paris Fashion Week 2023 also saw Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, and Dries Van Noten among others present their respective menswear collections.
The highlights from the Couture Fashion Week at PFW 2023
Kylie Jenner and her dress with a lion-head
Kylie Jenner, one of the world’s most followed celebrities on Instagram, arrived at the Schiaparelli show, which opened the Couture Fashion Week, wearing a strapless black velvet gown. But more than anything else, it was the faux lion head affixed to the dress that went viral on social media.
The dress she wore is one of the looks from the new collection and hadn’t even hit the runway when Jenner wore it.
“BEAUTY AND THE BEAST. thank you @danielroseberry and @schiaparelli for such a special morning. wow i loved wearing this faux art creation constructed by hand using manmade materials,” wrote Jenner on Instagram while sharing photos of herself in the dress.
Schiaparelli creative director Daniel Roseberry said that his collection was inspired by Dante’s Inferno.
The foam animal heads on the dresses that were presented were of a lion, a leopard and a she-wolf. According to Roseberry, they represented “lust, pride and avarice.”
Irina Shayk modelled the lion-head dress on the runway while Naomi Campbell walked in the she-wolf style on an all-black coat.
Dresses bearing faux animal heads were not the only creations at the Schiaparelli show. Among the unique designs were a bronze bustier and a dark tuxedo with oversized shoulders resembling a futuristic jumpsuit.
Doja Cat’s 30,000 Swarovski crystals
Doja Cat ended 2022 with her album, Planet Her, becoming one of the five most-streamed albums globally on Spotify. Glitter was perhaps the most perfect choice for the American wrapper to make her mark at the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show at the Paris Fashion Week.
She was covered head to toe in make-up and red jewels and posed alongside Jenner to make a unique style statement.
On its Instagram account, Schiaparelli revealed that 30,000 Swarovski crystals were applied by hand to create the eye-catching look of the rapper. A “red silk faille bustier,” “hand-knit skirt of lacquered wooden beads” and “Trompe l’œil toe boots” completed the American artist’s appearance.
According to make-up artist Pat McGrath, it took almost five hours to create.
Dior draws inspiration from Josephine Baker
Dior presented its collection at an annexe inside the Musée Rodin gardens where 13 giant portraits of African American women such as Eartha Kitt, Nina Simone and Josephine Baker among others by artist Mickalene Thomas graced the interiors.
Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from the life of Josephine Baker to present the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 Haute Couture. The dresses were marked by their muted colours and classic styles. They reflected on the 1920s through 1950s era, which Baker defined.
While the runway show was certainly a hit, the attendees added glamour to the event.
Anya Taylor-Joy arrived in a lace corset with a matching jacket. The Crown (2016– ) star Elizabeth Debicki was dressed in a pleated skirt with a sheer blouse.
K-pop group BLACKPINK member Jisoo, who is a Dior brand ambassador, won appreciation in her all-white ensemble. She completed her look with a white and floral Dior top-handle bag.
Chanel presented its Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection at the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris on Day 2 of the couture week. The show, by creative director Virginie Viard, drew inspiration from the animal sculptures at Coco Chanel’s apartment.
Plywood animals — stags, birds, camels and other — crafted by artist Xavier Veilhan were placed at the show.
Among the guests were Chanel ambassadors Marion Cotillard and Carole Bouquet. The two French actors expressed amazement at how models were emerging from inside the plywood animals, as if they were “coming out of Trojan horses.”
House ambassadors Sadie Sink, Lucy Boynton, Olivia Dean and Caroline de Maigret were also among those in attendance.
Armani and Michelle Yeoh
Michelle Yeoh, who has been nominated in the Best Actress category for 2023 Oscars, attended Armani’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023. Baz Luhrmann was also in attendance.
Armani’s collection featured voluminous gowns as well as cropped jackets paired with ankle-grazing cigarette pants. Models walked a long runway which had a diamond pattern. The colour palette of the dresses was deep black and blue. Some dresses had ruffled collars, headpieces and balloon pants.
Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf, which Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren head, gave us one of the most unforgettable moments in Paris with their ‘upside-down’ creations.
Models sashayed on the runway wearing dresses that were positioned in almost every direction — horizontal to diagonal. Their neutral-toned corset undergarments were visible.
One model had her dress completely upside-down, with the hemline covering her face. The neckline was below her waist. Another model had her dress attached at the hip and positioned horizontally.
Doja Cat wears whiskers
After making headlines around the world with her glittering red appearance at Schiaparelli’s presentation, Doja Cat once again drew attention with a new look. She attended Viktor & Rolf show wearing a moustache, goatee, and brows made from faux eyelashes.
Just before the show, she had dropped a hint about her appearance via an Instagram Story.
“If lashes are what you all want, then lashes are what you’ll get. See you at Viktor and Rolf,” she wrote.
Suga at Valentino
Suga of BTS attended the Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2023 show. He was seated at the front row and donned a monochrome look. Reports suggest that his beige suit, creamy camel blouse and loose necktie were from the Unboxing Valentino collection.
Suga is Valentino’s latest global brand ambassador.
As for the brand, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli presented Le Club Couture Spring Summer 2023 at the historic Pont Alexandre III in Paris. Individualism was put forward in the club-themed creations which included both voluminous silhouettes and fitting dresses.
Elie Saab’s couture show as part of the Paris Fashion Week 2023 was held at the Le Carreau Du Temple, a historic industrial building constructed under the reign of Napoleon III. The building, which underwent a transformation in 2014, now hosts events connected to the arts, music and fashion among others.
The Lebanese fashion designer’s Spring/Summer 2023 couture collection reflected royalty, opulence and grandeur. According to the fashion house, the collection, dubbed ‘A Golden Dawn,’ was inspired by the “natural scenes and rituals of the revered Kingdom of Thailand.”
The colour palette was muted, with cream and pastels dominating the display. Models walked in shimmering gowns, some of them wearing large bows on their necks.
Indian fashion designer Gaurav Gupta presented his label’s first showcase on the official calendar at Palais De Tokyo on 26 January as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week.
In a statement, Gupta said that his Shunya collection “explores the movement possibilities between zero and infinity with tangents of mythology, fantasy and surrealism.”
Gupta said that he explored “sculptural draping forms in indigo electric blue in satins, chiffons, organzas.” One of the dress in his collection had abstract entangled wires as embroideries and, as per the designer, is “garbage like.” A “snake dress” and a gold-and-black inspired by ancient Egyptian civilisation were also part of the collection.
(Main image: Image credit: Viktor&Rolf/@viktorandrolf/Facebook; Featured image: The Kittens Room/@TheKittensRoom/Twitter)
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