Move over Padstow and St Ives – this is Cornwall's finest getaway
Padstow is overrun, St Ives has become a little too clichéd and Newquay is packed with stags, hens and all manner of party-lovers looking for a good time. St Mawes, on the other hand, is effortlessly classic, increasingly chic, and small and out of the way enough to deter crowds from arriving en masse.
Set at the end of the bucolic Roseland Peninsula at the mouth of the river Fal, St Mawes is a tiny pocket of tranquil modernity with a traditional Cornish heart. Wonky cottages tumble down steep, narrow streets to the small, waterfront harbour where fishing boats bob at their moorings and a handful of galleries hide among shops touting the finest local fare. But what is perhaps most important to know about St Mawes is that it has a swing on the beach – which can hold the weight of a fully-grown adult.
It’s wander-ful
You can’t go far in St Mawes without having to climb a hill and the only seemingly flat street is Marine Parade, which snakes around the tiny harbour. But the rewards of a hilly coastal village become apparent with every step you take upwards and sparkling sea views begin to open up in almost every direction.
The Roseland Visitor Centre – just up the road from The Rising Sun pub – is a good place to start. Here, you can pick up one of eight self-guided walking maps for the bargain price of just 50p (stmawesandtheroseland.co.uk). Map one – St Mawes and the Carrick Roads – will take you around the village’s main highlights. As you head out of the car park and turn right along the seafront, keep a lookout for the old Shell petrol pumps, which can be found outside what is now the Roseland Gig Club. Be sure to check out the displays and find yourself wishing for a return to a time when petrol was just two shillings and one penny per gallon.
It’s worth taking a few minutes out of your day to dip into a couple of the galleries. The Waterside Gallery (watersidegallery.co.uk) and St Mawes Gallery (stmawesgallery.com) house a colourful array of paintings by British artists that are inspired by – and celebrate – the Cornish coast.
Pass ivy-strewn chocolate-box cottages before the sea disappears behind pricey seafront houses as you walk up Lower Castle Road to – you guessed it – St Mawes Castle. One of a chain of forts, the castle dates back to 1540. Built by Henry VIII (who insulted more than a few foreign monarchs during his eventful reign), the purpose of this coastal artillery fortress was to guard the river from the threat of invasion by the Catholic French and Spanish.
Now under the guardianship of English Heritage (english-heritage.org.uk; adults £6; children £3.60; free for members), St Mawes Castle is beautifully decorated and remains unaltered from the 16th century – with the exception of the anti-aircraft guns that were installed during the First and Second World Wars. The view from the top of the keep is one of the best in the village, looking out across the water towards the bustle of Falmouth.
Oh, I do like to be beside the sea
Set on the river mouth, the waters surrounding the old fishing village are relatively tranquil, making them a haven for paddleboarders, kayakers and sailors. Kayaks can be hired from St Mawes Sit-on Kayaks, Mini Cruises & Water Taxi (stmaweskayaks.co.uk; from £15 for two hours) while keen sailors should contact St Mawes Boat Hire (stmawesboathire.co.uk; £70 for half a day).
If you’d prefer to work on your core, Get on Board S.U.P offer a “Paddle and Go” rental delivery service (getonboardsup.co.uk; £30 for half a day). For a more laid-back pace, take a trip to Falmouth on the St Mawes Ferry (falriver.co.uk; single £7 for adults, £4 for children) or head to one of the three small beaches.
Plunged deep into the harbour wall to the west of the village, suspended steps lead down to Tavern Beach. While they may be a little vertigo-inducing, the steps are worth braving in order to dip your toes in the water. Like Summers Beach to the east – where you’ll find the swing that will shoot you straight back to your youth – Tavern Beach has a pontoon floating offshore during the summer months.
Idles Beach in the centre of the village is the smallest, and is the perfect spot to enjoy an ice cream or a traditional pasty. Even landlubbers will enjoy the Fal River Festival (falriver.co.uk), which runs over the next nine days (until June 3) and showcases the best of the region’s music, art, swimming, gig racing, and walking.
In the best possible taste
For fish and chips by the sea, try the Watch House (watchhousestmawes.co.uk; from £7.50) but be sure to get there early as they can run out of fish during busy periods. If it’s a traditional Cornish pasty you’re craving, there’s only one place to go – the St Mawes Bakery (from £4).
If your idea of the perfect afternoon involves whiling away the hours with a harbour view, book a table on the terrace at The Idle Rocks (telegraph.co.uk/tt-idle-rocks). With a glass of Cornish sparkling wine in hand, you’ll be fooled into thinking you’re in the Mediterranean. Locally sourced products make for superb mains – such as the vegetarian Heligan’s Garden and the Roast Brill served with mussels and truffle (three-course à la carte £58).
Back to base
Self-catering cottages such as Bass Cottage from Perfect Stays (perfectstays.co.uk; from £1,515 per week) are a great choice for families. For a cosy Cornish country hotel stay, it’s hard to beat Hotel Tresanton with its beautiful gardens and al fresco terrace (telegraph.co.uk/tt-tresanton; from £216 per night). The Idle Rocks is chic, laid-back and has rooms with sea views (telegraph.co.uk/tt-idle-rocks; from £165 per night).
