Mariano Fortuny gets a fashion-focused retrospective at Palais Galliera in Paris

ETX Daily Up

3 October 2017 at 5:23 am

Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949). Eleonora dress. Gold-printed green silk velvet, pleated green silk taffeta, green silk cordon, black and white glass beads. Taffeta lining

Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949). Eleonora dress (wrist detail). Gold printed antique gold bronze silk velvet, pleated brown silk. Black silk cordon, black, white and yellow glass beads. Antique gold silk lining. Circa 1910

Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949). Jacket and belt in green bronze, gold-printed silk velvet. Fluted lining in beige silk. Matching belt. Circa 1912

Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949). Coat in silk velvet chocolate, gold-printed velvet silk caramel. Lining in gold silk satin. Circa 1920

Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949). Delphos dress in green bronze pleated silk taffeta, cordon in black silk, amber, black and white beads. Circa 1913

Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949). Delphos dress. Circa 1940s. Pleated white mercerized cotton canvas, white silk cordon. White, yellow and blue glass beads

Albert Harlingue. Lisa, Anna and Margot Duncan, Isadora Duncan's adopted daughters, in Delphos robes, circa 1920

As well as being a painter, an engraver, a sculptor and a set designer, Mariano Fortuny was also a fashion and textile designer, known for his prints, his use of silk and his iconic pleats. The City of Paris fashion museum, Palais Galliera, is showing a retrospective of his work October 4, 2017, to January 7, 2018, in an exhibition entitled "Fortuny, un Espagnol à Venise" ("Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice"), featuring some of his most emblematic creations.

Venice soon became the adoptive home of Spanish-born artist and designer Mariano Fortuny. In fact, the artist currently has a museum bearing his name in the Italian city. Originally a painter, this multi-talented artist also took an interest in engraving, photography, design and set design after setting up in Venice in 1889. He then branched out into textiles from 1906.

The Palais Galliera retrospective will feature around a hundred pieces from the Galliera collection and from the Museo del Traje in Madrid, focusing in particular on Mariano Fortuny's timeless and characteristic creations and his various inspirations. Three principles dear to the designer -- liberating the body, comfort and elegance -- are also central to the exhibition.

Highlights include the "Delphos" dress, made in 1909. One of his most famous creations, the dress was designed with an innovative cut and techniques and features pleated grey silk taffeta, yellow and red glass beads, and gold-printed silk taffeta.

The retrospective also features a selection of dresses worn by eminent women, with designs incorporating patterns made by printing metallic powders onto silk velvet.

"Fortuny, un Espagnol à Venise" is the last show in Palais Galliera's Spanish season, which opened with "Balenciaga: Working in Black," March 8 to July 16, 2017, at the French capital's Musée Bourdelle.