Literature, lighthouses and lobster rolls – an expert guide to Portland, Maine
Why go?
With lovingly-restored Victorian buildings and cobbled streets, Portland has loads of character, while the sense of history is balanced by the youthful energy of college students and young professionals. The revitalised Old Port is bustling: shop in smart boutiques; munch lobster rolls; drink award-winning craft brews; take home collectible crafts.
Cruise port location
Each season (May to November), some 100 cruise ships dock or tender in to the Maine State Pier and the Ocean Gateway Terminal. Right on Portland’s historic waterfront, they are five minutes’ walk from the Old Port. A longer stroll, bus or trolley ride gets you to more attractions.
Can I walk to any places of interest?
The Portland Museum of Art and the Wadsworth-Longfellow House are a 20-minute walk away. For grand views, head for the 1807 Portland Observatory. All are uphill from the terminal. Or, check out the shops and cafés around the waterfront; there is plenty to keep you busy.
Getting around
Portland is a pedestrian-friendly city, with everything handy for visitors. But, it is on a hill, so wear comfy shoes. Or, from the cruise port, ride the local bus service’s Peninsula Loop (Route 8) through downtown. Alternatively, take a guided trolley tour or harbour cruise with Portland Discovery.
What to see and do
Portland is like a bowl of pot pourri, with museums for culture, independent shops for browsing, a great café and beer scene and specialities, such as Maine-made crafts. Strolling is fun and wherever you walk, plaques explain who did what and when in the long history of this compact city.
What can I do in four hours or less?
A highlight is the Portland Museum of Art, whose impressive collection includes Renoir and Warhol. But the must-sees are works by all-American artists, who were inspired by Maine: Winslow Homer, Edward Hopper, Robert Henri and N C Wyeth. Literary types should visit the Wadsworth-Longfellow House, home to the writer, one of Queen Victoria’s favourite poets, and four generations of his family. Their furnishings remain, providing a look at life from 1785-1901. Next door, the fascinating story of this state is told at the Maine Historical Society. Up on Munjoy Hill stands the Portland Observatory, North America’s last wooden signal tower. Built in 1807, it offers terrific views of the city, harbour and Casco Bay from the cupola balcony. As for contemporary Portland, discover why it consistently scores as one of America’s foodiest destinations on an Old Port Culinary Walking Tour.
This leisurely three-hour, mile-long stroll includes tastings of lobster mac and cheese, local beer, doughnuts, dark chocolate truffles and more ($69.95/£53). And for something completely different, join locals on the Casco Bay Lines Mailboat Run. The boat links five offshore islands; the two and a half to three and a half hour trip feels like a mini-cruise ($16.50/£12.50).
What can I do in eight hours or less?
Maine is New England’s largest state and reaching attractions near to Portland requires a car or a boat. So, it is worth signing up for shore excursions offered by cruise lines. Royal Caribbean for example, offers Lighthouses of Maine, a half-day, land-based trip that includes Portland Head Light, America’s oldest, most-painted and most-photographed lighthouse. More romantic is the Portland by Land and Sea package, which includes a sail in Casco Bay aboard a century-old, 88-foot wooden schooner. “The Kennebunks” refers to two traditional seaside holiday resorts, a 30-minute drive south of Portland. An excursion to Kennebunkport includes time in the village, with its shops and galleries, and a drive past historic sea captains’ mansions, as well as the “Summer White House” of the Bush family. For a shopping spree and bargains galore, book an LL Bean Freeport Shopping Transfer. Or, go off on your own: a 100 per cent Maine experience is a day out on the Casco Bay Lines’ Bailey Island ferry run. During the six-hour outing, the skipper points out the history, highlights and wildlife. There is a relaxing two-hour lunch break at Cook’s Lobster & Ale House on Bailey Island ($26/£19.70).
Eat and drink
Lobster: that’s Portland’s USP. In a hurry? Grab lobster rolls at The Highroller Lobster Co on Exchange Street. But there’s more: Portland’s chefs provide a showcase for Maine’s farm-to-fork produce, as well as straight-off-the boat seafood. And the city boasts more craft breweries per head than anywhere in the US.
Don’t leave Portland without…
The “Maine Made” label reflects the state’s booming and stylish crafts scene: textiles woven with Maine wool, Sea Bags’ useful tote bags made from recycled sails, must-have jewellery and traditional hand-made baskets. For bargain hunters, Freeport is 20 minutes away. The 170 brand-name, tax-free outlets include LL Bean (outdoor wear).
Need to know
Safety
Portland is generally safe, with little crime against tourists. But always be mindful of your possessions.
Best time to go
Right on the sea, Portland is brisk in spring (12°C/53°F), so wind and rainproof clothing is needed. Come summer, think sunny, but breezy days (average highs of 25°C/77°F), with cool evenings, when a sweater is handy. With clear, crisp days, autumn, the US fall, is hugely popular for leaf peepers, who flock to see New England’s foliage (average highs of 15°C (60°F). Again, layers are the key.
Closures
Museums and stores are open daily in season, though Sunday hours are often shorter.
Save money
Check Portland’s website for occasional specials and deals.
