Can the Women’s Watch Prize at the 2022 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève be attractive to men? You bet it can. Just ask Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, the first brand with a watch nominee in both men’s and women’s categories. That fateful model? The PF Tonda Microrotor in 40mm. That said, it would be understandable if men express a little reticence at a model that is competitive in the women’s category wouldn’t it? After all, given that winners of the previous years have been luminaries like Chanel and Piaget, one could be forgiven if they thought if “women’s” watches were more about pompous bijou than practicality. Well, for the new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm, they’d be wrong.
Why Augustman Loves the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm
The new Tonda PF Automatic, calibrated in a more compact 36mm case size, speaks a contemporary grammar that includes discretion and inclusion. The two Parmigiani Fleurier models are true to the collection’s underlying ethos of elegance and beautiful minimalism, even though they experiment with clashing colours and expensive materials. Parmigiani Fleurier unveils a two-tone 18ct rose gold and steel model, a first for the Tonda PF series.
At Parmigiani Fleurier, the pursuit of aesthetic purity is essential to the creative process. The brand’s inaugural Tonda PF Automatic in two-tone rose gold and steel presented a stylistic challenge given the collection’s understated and polished character. How can you add a modern two-tone style without compromising this collection’s inherent discretion? The answer was to amplify specific architectural elements of the bracelet and case by using the precious metal. For instance, the Tonda PF’s delicately knurled bezel is replicated in 18ct rose gold, and the flexible integrated bracelet has links made of rose gold that draw attention to its tapering profile. These watches echo the technical and aesthetic credentials of the original 40mm version.
For Men: Subdued is the new powerful
The bracelet’s flowing, tapering design ends with the iconic teardrop lugs. The vertical gold links that surround the horizontal centre link have a satin-finished surface, which contrasts with the polished stainless steel links at either end of the bracelet. The way these golden links taper down to the folding clasp adds to their charm. The flowing rose gold links highlight the bracelet’s sleek design like gold ribbons emerging from the knurled bezel.
Different from the bigger 40mm Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, the 36mm models are smaller and do not have a date window, adding to its purity. The stunning Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché ornamentation on the dial and the brilliant baguette-cut diamond hour markers demand attention, and there is nothing extraneous to detract from the view. That said, even the rhodium-plated appliques set with twelve FG-VVS baguette-cut diamonds, weighing a total of 0.36 carats fall on the side of sophisticated rather than feminine.
The deep, rich ruby colour of the alligator strap is echoed in the dial. The two watches highlight how adaptable the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm is, as it can dress up in a chic two-tone suit or entice with its rich, warm 18ct rose gold casing and captivating deep ruby dial. Much like their predecessors, these two Tonda PF Automatic 36mm models house the PF770 automatic winding movement marrying technical prowess with aesthetic charm.
Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Price & Specs
Case 36mm 18ct rose gold and stainless steel with knurled bezel with 100 m water resistance
Movement Automatic calibre PF770 with 60 hours power reserve
Price From CHF 24,000