The Reverso and Master Control collections are some of the most distinctive watches made by the Grande Maison but the Polaris collection, inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris, has defined the spirit of sporty elegance at Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Utilitarian functions, vintage design codes and modern standards of chronometric performance continue to distinguish the Polaris following recent evolutions with Double Gradient dial or Mariner Memovox and Mariner Date variants; and now, JaegerLeCoultreʼs mainstay of uniquely utilitarian watchmaking brings a sumptuous, sophisticated deep green dial.
Launched in 2018, the Polaris Date drew inspiration from the 1968 Memovox Polaris, a supercharged version of the Memovox Deep Sea with a larger 42mm case size, three crowns, a triple layer caseback to improve the alarmʼs diffusion of sound underwater, 200 metres water resistance, an internal rotating bezel and date.
Produced in very low quantities and taken out of production in 1969, the Memovox Polaris quickly became one of the most popular Polaris models of all time, becoming a highly coveted collectorʼs piece, demonstrating the durable appeal of this design, with its subtle vintage touches through the creamy luminescent coating.
The Memovox Tribute to Polaris was first re-issued in 2008 with a faithful yet limited edition of the original and since 2018, the collection has been greatly expanded with automatic, date, chronograph, world timer and Memovox variants.
Aesthetically, the Polaris Date was first seen with a grainy black dial, then followed in 2019 with a Double Gradient blue edition, and now, a lacquered, double-gradient green dial with multiple textured finishes allowing the Polaris Date to prioritise legibility without the slightest compromise in aesthetics.
Compared to the more complex Memovox with alarm function, the Polaris Date is simpler mechanically while sharing the same overall design and proportions. What it lacks in terms of complication, the latest Polaris Date more than makes up with its visual elements: a balanced mix of opaline, grained and sun rayed surfaces clearly defining each key dial segment, from the mobile inner bezel ring to the minute track.
Showcased by the glass-box crystal, the colour gradient ranges from light olive to verdant rainforest, taking on different shades according to the angle of reflected light. A coat of translucent lacquer brings mesmerising depth to the dial, allowing the vanilla-tinted dial indexes to stand out with perfect clarity ‒ the raison dʼêtre of any legitimate diving timepiece.
Measuring 42mm in diameter and 13.92mm thick, the case of the Polaris Date remains subtle, thanks to its satin-finished surfaces, with polished chamfers on the case lugs and narrow bezel. That said, the case featuring a classic three-part architecture with a standard screwed caseback is not a true compressor watch.
However, the mobile inner bezel controlled by the crown at the two o’clock position, is a key feature of a true diver’s watch, permitting the wearer to measure timing offsets or countdowns with great precision.
The Polaris Date is a Boutique Edition and will be available exclusively from Jaeger-LeCoultre e-commerce for a month.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS DATE BOUTIQUE EDITION
PRICE + SPECS
Case 42mm stainless steel with 200 metres water resistance
Movement Automatic Calibre 899AB with 70 hours power reserve