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Inside Tokyo's neon world of noise and prolonged childhood

Akihabara is Tokyo's main district for video games, anime, manga, and computer goods - This content is subject to copyright.
Akihabara is Tokyo's main district for video games, anime, manga, and computer goods - This content is subject to copyright.

Zara Sekhavati wins our weekly Just Back travel writing competition - and £250 - for her account of a neon world of noise and prolonged childhood.

Electronic sounds pulsate through my body. I feel as though my insides are vibrating. My eyes squint as luminous pinks, greens and yellows strobe across the video arcade in the neon neighbourhood of Akihabara, central Tokyo.  

The area is famous for arcades – and maid cafés - Credit: GETTY
The area is famous for arcades – and maid cafés Credit: GETTY

On the bottom floor are the crane crankers: young men with loosened ties have rushed here straight from work. It is crammed with crane machines stuffed with smiling pieces of sushi and Pikachus. Their incessant tapping of buttons fills my eardrums, their foreheads pressed against the glass, desperation in their eyes.

'There is so much noise here for a people often stereotyped as being quiet and reserved' - Credit: Getty
'There is so much noise here for a people often stereotyped as being quiet and reserved' Credit: Getty

On the next level are the coin pushers: men on the hunt for anime characters in plastic boxes. They moan and groan as they fall short of their trophies. 

Another lift up reveals the card collectors: a group of men playing with Pokémon cards in a corner. They shout and applaud as they strike one down. There is so much noise here for a people often stereotyped as being quiet and reserved.

22 weird and wonderful things about Japan
22 weird and wonderful things about Japan

On the next level are the car drivers: short men with puny legs reaching for the brakes. A hand grips the steering wheel while the other makes sweaty marks on the gear stick. The men swerve abruptly to the left and right in the hard plastic seats, following the direction of the animated vehicle on the big, bright screen in front of them. 

Pokémon isn't the half of it - Credit: Hitoshi Yamada/NurPhoto/NurPhoto
Pokémon isn't the half of it Credit: Hitoshi Yamada/NurPhoto/NurPhoto

One floor up are the virtual guitarists: teenagers banging on illuminated buttons that act as strings. Sleeves rolled up, they follow the rapid movements of the musical instrument on the flashing monitor opposite them. Their thin but tough fingers are skilful as they dance on the buttons. Occasionally their right hand smothers all of them, sweeping the entire row from one side to the other in one go. A clicketyclack racket ensues. Do they play real guitars at home? 

The top floor is encased in cigarette smoke. It’s hot and the air-conditioning doesn’t work. It reeks of sweat and prolonged childhoods. Here is the domain of the dancers and the drum players. This time, young girls are playing. They are dressed in loose vest tops and fluttering miniskirts. Their legs, coated in knee-high socks, stomp on the multi-coloured flashing squares beneath them. Their dainty, delicate appearances don’t match their jolted movements as their sleek, jet-black pigtails spring, twisting and criss-crossing with the rhythm of the thundering music. 

A trip to a Tokyo arcade is a sensory overload - Credit: Getty
A trip to a Tokyo arcade is a sensory overload Credit: Getty

Another young man, dressed in a sharp, crisp suit, plays on the taiko drum. His knuckles turn white as he clenches the drum sticks, looking like they are about to burst. Booming sounds follow along with the loud screams of anime music and high-pitched cheers. He hits 100 per cent. He’s won! But it’s not enough: he inserts some yen into the machine and the games begin again.

How to enter the next round of Just Back

Email your entry in 500 words (with the text in the body of the email), to justback@telegraph.co.uk. For terms and conditions, see telegraph.co.uk/tt-justback. The winner will receive £250 in the currency of their choice from the Post Office.

The Post Office is the UK’s largest travel money provider. It offers more than 70 currencies with 0% commission. Customers can buy selected currencies over the counter at 8,000 branches and all currencies can be ordered for next-day delivery at 11,500 branches. Orders can be placed online at postoffice.co.uk/travel-money.