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FOOD REVIEW: Sichuan Alley — “Casual, creative, and multi-faceted”

Pickled Chilli Beef Tripe (PHOTO: Zat Astha/Yahoo Lifestyle SEA)
Pickled Chilli Beef Tripe (PHOTO: Zat Astha/Yahoo Lifestyle SEA)

SINGAPORE — Chef Pang Kok Keong is everywhere these days, it seems—at least if you’re as involved with the food scene as I am. The last time I spoke to him was in 2019 for an interview held at the now-shuttered Antoinette at Penhas Road. I’ve also visited his all-day dining joint at Millenia Walk for breakfast, which has since closed at the same time as the Penhas outfit did. With all these closures looming, one would expect the man to be in a slight rut, right? Yet, no sooner had we mourned the closure of Singapore’s foremost plated dessert institution (10 years running, mind you), along comes Chef Pang with a jaunt in his step to announce the opening of Hakka Pang at Xin Tekka, also a venture short-lived having closed in just eight short months since it launched.

But did that cause Chef Pang to stutter or miss a step? No, it did not. I am inclined to believe that he generally and generously takes all this in his stride and finds some sort of strange joy in having to figure his way out of every kerfuffle thrown his way. Xin Tekka closes down due to poor management? No problem. He’ll just open two more stalls—one at Arc380 and another at Sprout Hub. That’s some courage right there and deep pockets to boot. It’s as if Antoinette’s closing was a blessing in disguise, a sort of good luck charm that’s paving the way down his road of savoury success. Cakes? Who’s that again?

Fried Crispy Pig Intestines  (PHOTO: Zat Astha/Yahoo Lifestyle SEA)
Fried Crispy Pig Intestines (PHOTO: Zat Astha/Yahoo Lifestyle SEA)

And then, I wake up one morning to an email informing me that Chef Pang is now the Chef-partner at Sichuan Alley, a casual dining concept opened by the same folks behind Birds of a Feather over at Amoy Street. Another F&B project by Chef Pang? My eyes must be deceiving me, though, in reality, it is unsurprisingly such a Chef Pang thing to do. Similar to the formal outfit at Amoy, Sichuan Alley strives to prove a point—that Sichuan flavours go well and beyond that of a mere Mala Xiang Guo that has gripped the collective taste buds of every OL in Singapore.

If you decide to pay a visit, pay no heed to the warning bells going off in your head upon reading the menu—the appetisers read like a party of offcuts that might cause you pause. Order it anyway. My favourite is the Fried Crispy Pig Intestines (S$5.50), an intimidating-sounding plate that has been expertly fried such that the inside is soft and in contrast to its crispy exterior. Textures in an appetiser? I’d never.

Elsewhere, a serving of Pickled Chilli Beef Tripe (S$6.50) is an excellent homage to the oft-ignored beef part, which happens to be something I’m incredibly partial to. Here, it’s served with yellow onions, slivers of carrots, mushrooms, doused in a pickled dressing, and served cold. Every element has been seasoned mildly, making it a great prelude to the heavier mains to come.

French Red Wine Wagyu Brisket with Truffle Foam (PHOTO: Zat Astha/Yahoo Lifestyle SEA)
French Red Wine Wagyu Brisket with Truffle Foam (PHOTO: Zat Astha/Yahoo Lifestyle SEA)

Mains come by way of the Signature Dan Dan Noodle (S$12.50) served with hand-made noodles and moreish minced meats. While this might sound strange, this was altogether a clean-tasting presentation with each flavour capable of standing on its own merit. It’s a pity then that the miso soup was decidedly bland, though, with how robust the noodles taste, is something I can forgive.

A better noodle option guaranteed not to disappoint would be the French Red Wine Wagyu Brisket with Truffle Foam ($25), a riff off of a beef bourguignon. It’s the priciest plate I’ve had today and happens to be one of the best with whiffs of beef aromatics wafting off the plate and beef cubes that are tender and give way easily to bite. There’s the truffle flavour within, too, which comes forward with ease but without ever fighting or demanding attention. I liked this dish the most.

Mapo Tofu Rice (PHOTO: Zat Astha/Yahoo Lifestyle SEA)
Mapo Tofu Rice (PHOTO: Zat Astha/Yahoo Lifestyle SEA)

As if reading my mind and satisfying a craving, I was also offered a big plate of Mapo Tofu Rice (S$13) served with a small bowl of mapo tofu that sits in a glossy red puddle of chilli oil. To add to its healthy leanings, the rice is a nutritious mix of brown grains and barley with a ramen egg to boot. While not about to win any awards for creativity, it works for people who are often at a loss of what to eat (every friend group has one of those), perfectly encapsulating the spirit of Sichuan Alley—casual, creative, and multi-faceted.

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51A Telok Ayer St, #01-01, Singapore 048441
Daily: 10.30am – 9pm

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