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Cruising to Montreal? Here's where to go and what to see in Canada's second city

The Montreal skyline by night -
The Montreal skyline by night -

The Canadian city of Montreal celebrates its 375th birthday this month with a wealth of festivities. But then, as one of North America’s most fun and sophisticated cities, Montreal hosts major events every year – from the biggest international festivals of jazz and comedy to the Formula 1 Grand Prix, won by Lewis Hamilton in 2016. And with more direct flights than ever, this is a perfect fly-cruise destination. 

The newly renovated and upgraded terminal on Quai Alexandra looks set to welcome 35 per cent more passengers this season, starting this month with Holland America’s Veendam. And the terminal is just steps away from atmospheric Old Montreal. 

A cruise ship docked in Montreal - Credit: Alamy
Montreal, one of North America’s most fun and sophisticated cities Credit: Alamy

Old Montreal

From Quai Alexandra, walk along the grassy promenade overlooking the St Lawrence River. The stone warehouses on your left have seen it all over the centuries, from merchant ships under sail to the installation of a zip line, the country’s first urban aerial thrill ride. For illuminating tales of past and present, download the free app from Montréal en Histoires (montrealenhistoires.com). 

Using the Old Port’s free Wi-Fi, stop at the well-marked Points of Interest to see and hear the past come to life. Turn left onto Place Jacques-Cartier, bustling with buskers, outdoor café tables and a market with crafts and must-taste homemade ice cream.

Buildings in the Old Port of Montreal - Credit: AP
Buildings in the Old Port of Montreal Credit: AP

Cycling tours

Rent a bike from Ça Roule Montréal (caroulemontreal.com) on the quay and explore on your own, or join a half-day themed tour. Then walk the morning or afternoon part of the following itinerary. If the weather’s bad explore the Underground City’s 20 miles of subterranean walkways, with boutiques, movie theatres, restaurants, and more. 

Galleries, cafes and gifts

Turn west along cobbled Rue Saint-Paul East, the city’s oldest street. Montreal may be the second-largest French-speaking city in the world, but English is widely spoken. 

L’Empreinte Coopérative is a showcase for Quebec artisans; the huge choice of wares ranges from scarves and jewellery to fleece-lined slippers for children. Délices Érable & Cie celebrates all things maple: syrup, candy and more, while Galerie Images Boréales is the place to go for animal sculptures carved by Inuit artists in northern Quebec. 

A cycling path along the Lachine Canal in Montreal - Credit: Alamy
A cycling path along the Lachine Canal in Montreal Credit: Alamy

Continue along what is now Rue Saint-Paul West, featuring more art galleries and cafés as well as Delano Design, a funky, upmarket mix of art and fashion.  

The birthplace of Montreal

Turn left onto Place Royale; at the bottom is Pointe-à-Callière, the outstanding city history museum, built over the archaeological excavations of the original settlement. To celebrate the city’s 375th birthday, a new annexe opens with an exhibition called Where Montréal Began, recalling both French colonists and First Nations people. 

Spend time exploring Montreal’s past and then head up to floor two for outstanding views of the Old Port from the museum’s L’Arrivage Bistro. 

Cafes on Rue Saint-Paul - Credit: Alamy
Cafes on Rue Saint-Paul Credit: Alamy

A slice of local culture

There is more to this city than Old Montreal. Take a taxi (around £7) for the 12-minute ride to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.

Housing one of Canada’s largest and finest collections, it includes paintings by masters from Rembrandt to Picasso, but the revelation here is the Canadian art: Inuit carvings, works by the early-20th century Group of Seven artists and contemporary canvases by local superstar Jean-Paul Riopelle. 

Where to shop 

Walk east along Rue Sherbrooke and you can’t miss the distinctive stone building wrapped around the corner of Rue Sainte-Catherine West. Established in 1866, La Maison Ogilvy is to Montreal what Harrods is to London. At midday a bagpiper parades through the department store in a musical nod to its Scottish founder. 

Other Canadian brands on this street include Aritzia from Vancouver and Montreal’s own design-oriented m0851, which offers a lovely range of leather bags, laptop bags and travel accessories.

L’Entente Cordiale Modern Montreal is a blend of all things English and French. Here on Rue Sainte-Catherine is the Anglican Christ Church Cathedral; not far away is Place Victoria, complete with a statue of the Queen herself.

Walk east on Rue Saint-Jacques to the historic Place d’Armes, where the 17th-century Saint Sulpice Seminary and the Catholic Notre-Dame Basilica rub shoulders with 19th-century banks founded by the British.

Poking fun at past tensions are two bronze figures: The English Pug and The French Poodle. Located outside the National Bank building, the “anglo” businessman carries a pug, and the elegant woman is holding a poodle: both have their noses in the air. 

The Notre-Dame Basilica - Credit: AP
The Notre-Dame Basilica Credit: AP

Where to drink 

Leave the square on Rue Notre-Dame East, walk to Rue Saint-Vincent and then turn right, and you’ll find the cool and contemporary Hotel William Gray. Its Café Olimpico is popular and the hotel boasts one of the city’s best rooftop terraces. 

The St Laurence River, Montreal - Credit: AP
The St Laurence River, Montreal Credit: AP

Head up to the eighth floor, where the sweeping panorama takes in the quays along the St Lawrence River – remember to look out for your ship – and the Jacques Cartier Bridge. Where better to raise a glass to the city that is 375 years young? 

For more information visit tourisme-montreal.org