Crimson Crush: Jewellery with red gemstones

·5-min read

We celebrate our nation’s 57th birthday with an array of sensational jewels featuring red gemstones.

ART DIRECTION: LEE KUAN LENG

Chaumet
Since the maison’s founding in 1780, nature – particularly water – has been an important source of inspiration. However, the house has never dedicated an entire high jewellery collection to the sea until now. Named Ondes et Merveilles de Chaumet, it is an invitation to travel as pieces showcase varied representations of the ocean. Comprising this stunning white and rose gold necklace, a ring and a pair of earrings, the Escales parure also illustrates the art of colour, which is central to the maison. Representing boats docked in a harbour on this creation are marquise-cut diamonds of varying sizes set on a fringe of diamonds, sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines evoking translucent waters. Arranged along the jewel’s undulating inner edge is a row of red spinels, topped off by a 10.08-carat cushion-cut spinel in the centre. Adding a burst of contrasting brick red, this depiction is reminiscent of a fiery horizon as the sun sets.

Van Cleef & Arpels
We love the fluid lines of this elegant piece from the maison’s latest high jewellery collection, Legend of Diamonds – 25 Mystery Set Jewels. A reflection of the couture inspiration that the house has cherished since its beginnings, this Double Ruban Mystérieux clip showcases an artful combination of precious gems, as well as white and rose gold that evoke supple fabric. A 3.08-carat emerald-cut diamond – one of 67 cut from the phenomenal 910-carat raw diamond named the Lesotho Legend – nestles at an angle against the backdrop of several layers of gems arranged in a display of graceful curves. Held in place with the Traditional Mystery Set technique, rows of buff-topped rubies impart an intense velvety red effect, while pink sapphires add softness with their delicate pink shade.

Graff
Every ruby is hand selected by the Graff family and must pass a stringent selection process before it is set. Masters of contrast, the British jeweller’s expert artisans then procure the finest and most brilliant white diamonds to accentuate the remarkable vivacity of the chosen rubies. A fine testament to Graff’s exceptional savoir faire is this white gold and platinum open bangle adorned with round diamonds and two oval rubies. Totalling an impressive 18.02 carats, the vibrant red gems are made even more extraordinary with floral engravings, a popular jewellery crafting technique originating from the Mughal empire in the 18th century.

Bulgari
From Bulgari Eden: The Garden of Wonders high jewellery collection comes this magnificent white gold Serpenti creation. The Spinel Charm necklace captures the mesmerising gem’s fire in a new iteration of the Roman jeweller’s iconic serpent. Nestled in the elegant twist of the slithering creature is an 8-carat oval step-cut pinkish red spinel from Tanzania. An ode to Bulgari’s passion for colourful, vibrant and unique gemstones, the spinel is particularly cherished by the house for its rich nuances. Its astounding beauty is showcased here through an unconventional contrast against geometric onyx inserts interspersed with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds and pavè diamonds totalling 31.73 carats.

Chopard
This eye-catching creation is one of the 75 outstanding high jewellery pieces from the maison’s latest Red Carpet Collection unveiled at the recent Cannes Film Festival. A beloved motif of the house, the rose is depicted on several pieces, including this ring set in Fairmined-certified ethical white gold, coloured titanium and aluminium. Bedecked with 4.7 carats worth of rubies and pink sapphires weighing 3.13 carats, the slightly articulated petals appear to be unfurling to reveal a captivating 2-carat round-cut diamond at its heart.

Cartier
This white gold Nouchali Necklace from the maison’s Beautés du Monde high jewellery collection depicts a stylised water lily composed of lacquered and articulated elements set with gemstones. Adorning a necklace with beads of chalcedony and rubellites accentuated by diamonds is a three- dimensional floral motif mounted en tremblant that quivers as the wearer moves. The gaze is drawn straight to a 10.61-carat cabochon-cut rubellite at the heart of the delicate aquatic flower. Around it are diamond petals, each geometrically shaped into quadrilaterals and outlined with black lacquer to amplify the impression of volume. On the reverse, the inverted structure reveals an architectural motif, which resembles a stained glass rose window. Adding to the ethereal nature of the piece are six kite-shaped diamonds totalling 3.45 carats that form a halo around the lily.

Tiffany & Co.
Undeniably one of 20th century’s most gifted artists, Tiffany designer Jean Schlumberger renowned for his bold and whimsical creations. The Frenchman had a knack for transforming gold and xtraordinary gems into magnificent objects of beauty with strong, sculptural designs that transcended time and trends. Case in point: This Chevron Fringe high jewellery necklace in twisted yellow gold.

Gucci
The house’s third act of high jewellery collection Hortus Deliciarum is divided into five chapters that make up a fantastical travelogue starting in the mid-19th century and continuing to the 1970s. In the second chapter, we journey to the time of the maharajahs in India, replete with magnificent palace architecture, lush gardens and the coloured silks of Mughal attire. Here, pieces with gems that encapsulate the hypnotic quality of twilight take centre stage, like this pair of yellow gold Lionhead earrings. Two stunning heart-shaped red spinels – held in the jaws of the powerful beast – stand out beautifully against emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds. Made for the audacious, the 20 coloured gemstones on these opulent jewels weigh a total of 45.47 carats.

This story first appeared in the August 2022 issue of Prestige Singapore.

 

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