Come for the beer, stay for the art: Why Munich should be your next city break
There’s much to toast in the Bavarian capital, even after Oktoberfest.
Why go now
You have two contrasting choices for an autumn break in Munich. Either embrace the thigh-slapping, sing-song merriment of the Oktoberfest (which this year runs from next weekend until Oct 6). It’s not the tourist trap that you might fear – most visitors are locals or come from the wider Bavarian region and the beer, all made in Munich breweries, is outstandingly good.
If you don’t fancy that, wait until the beer tents have emptied and the air fares and hotel rates have returned to normal. Then enjoy what is often a long, golden autumn in one of Europe’s historic cultural capitals.
Much of the centre was flattened towards the end of the war, but the neo-Gothic showpiece – the Rathaus or town hall – still dominates the central Marienplatz (1 on the map below) and the city’s many treasures were reinstalled, largely intact, to its outstanding museums.
Among the many highlights is the city’s fabulous art gallery, the Alte Pinakothek, which reopened last summer having been transformed by a four-year restoration programme. British Airways (ba.com), easyJet (easyjet.com) and Lufthansa (lufthansa.com) ofer direct flights.
Stay here
The Louis Hotel (2), which opened a decade ago, has an unpromising entrance, but excellent, well-designed rooms and an ideal location, just by the Viktualienmarkt – one of the main beer gardens. Doubles from about £180 per night (telegraph.co.uk/tt-louis.hotel). Much cheaper, the Cocoon Stachus (3) is a slightly-wacky design hotel, on the city centre edge. Doubles from about £60 (telegraph.co.uk/tt-cocoon-stachus).
Walk here
Central Munich is very compact and it takes only a few minutes to take in the key sights that are clustered around the Marienplatz. To stretch your legs a bit more, head instead for the Englisher Garten (4) – the English Gardens – just to the north of the centre. The huge park – laid out in the 18th century, complete with lawns, follies, woodlands, lakes and fast-flowing streams – is one of Europe’s most beautiful.
See this
The Alte Pinakothek (the old picture gallery) has a fabulous collection of Old Masters including some of the greatest works by Dürer – such as his famous self-portrait – Van der Weyden, Raphael, Rubens and Rembrandt. The art is beautifully lit, and the galleries are rarely crowded. If you prefer something a bit edgier and more modern, the Lenbachhaus (5) is an early 20th century villa with an extension by Norman Foster and an excellent collection of Blue Rider paintings including many by Kandinsky and Klee (lenbachhaus.de).
Try this
The Munich Opera House (6) (staatsoper.de) is among the world’s best – the city is passionate about its music, and tickets are significantly cheaper than in London, with decent seats from about €65 (£58). You’ll not only experience outstanding performances, but also get an insight into Munich society. October highlights include La traviata, Tosca and Fidelio, plus a new production of Salome. If you prefer ballet, the Staatsballet is performing Anna Karenina and Coppelia.
Shop here
The city centre is dominated with big international brands, but just south of the Viktualienmarkt (7) around Reichenbachstrasse is a grid of streets little visited by tourists where you’ll find many of the city’s best independent shops and artisans. Just opposite the market is Kustermann department store, which has been selling stylish goods for the home since 1798.
Drink here
If you do plump for the Oktoberfest then – to be sure of getting a seat in one of the main tents – you will need to plan your drinking and book in advance. Our complete guide to how to make the most of it is online at (telegraph.co.uk/tt-oktoberfest). Outside the festival, many tourists head for the Hofbräuhaus (hofbraeuhaus.de) in the cellars of the Rathaus, which has been in business for more than four centuries. More stylish and with fabulous views is the rooftop bar of the Hotel Bayerischer Hof (8) (bayerischerhof.de).
Eat here
It’s rare I recommend a vegetarian restaurant as my top pick, but Prinz Myshkin (9) on Hackenstrasse, a five-minute walk south from Marienplatz, offers an outstandingly tasty menu with an unusual combination of both Indian and Italian dishes. Choose between Malai Kofta with coconut curry (€17.20) and Tagliatelle Tartufata (€17.50), for example (prinzmyshkin.com/en).
Another unusual but highly-successful combination is the Japanese-Peruvian fusion offered by Matsuhisa (10) at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s (mandarinoriental.com) where, for example Chilean sea bass with jalapeño dressing will cost €40.
Off the map
The star location of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang and the maddest and most spectacular of Mad King Ludwig’s mountaintop castles, Schloss Neuschwanstein is a 90-minute drive from Munich in the foothills of the Alps. Scaffolding is due to come off one of the wings in mid-October, after restoration (neuschwanstein.de).
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