It's a Chloé World and We All Want to Live in It

On a drab, rainy morning in Paris, Chemena Kamali presented her Spring 2025 for Chloé, her second ever for the brand. She titled it “The Freedom Collection,” and referenced the easy feelings of summer, writing in her collection notes, “The mood is light, weightless, sensual and joyful.”

The collection felt like a shot of Vitamin D; a sunny, happy, and frilly antidote to the gloomy skies outside. The trick, that Kamali pulls off effortlessly, is distilling those good vibes into desirable, wearable clothes. With this collection, Kamali flexed her ability to merchandise: it's not one item that stands out among the looks, like a boot or a bag that might go on a future aspirational shopping list, but the full outfit.

You want the whispy slips with long necklaces and wooden clogs with PVC straps. You swoon over a cocoon-shaped leather jacket over little black shorts. You must have the frilly bloomer pants with the boho peasant top and gold belt and black strappy ballet flats. You dream of sashaying about in one of the flowing dresses with the Karl Lagerfeld-era floral prints.

“Chloé is not a passing moment,” Kamali wrote. “It is an eternal state guided by instinct and optimism.” She added, “What matters to me is the feeling and intuition that guides this very personal, intimate and sensual way of dressing.”

Understanding the delicate nuances of reinterpreting the DNA of a legacy brand is what makes a creative director great at their job. You can reference and borrow from the archives but if you can’t filter those things through your own lens then it all becomes meaningless. It becomes stuff. What Kamali is doing is exactly right: nodding to the past while still looking to the future, and crafting a new idea for Chloé that is clearly resonating. Best of all? She’s having a blast doing it.

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