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The best free things to do in Malta, from beautiful gardens to panoramic views

From cliffs to castles, the baroque to the avant-garde, there’s a treasure trove of tourism to discover without a ticket in Malta - Fotolia
From cliffs to castles, the baroque to the avant-garde, there’s a treasure trove of tourism to discover without a ticket in Malta - Fotolia

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With glorious coastline, free-access beaches, a cornucopia of churches, and historic sights all over the landscape, there is loads to do in Malta without shrinking your wallet. From cliffs to castles, the baroque to the avant-garde, there’s a treasure trove of tourism to discover without a ticket. This miniature nation is full of tiny towns, many surrounded by towering bastion walls, thick with limestone palazzi and hidden nooks and corners. It’s ripe for a bit of constructive loafing and there’s almost always a friendly local around to chat or lend a navigational hand.

Valletta

Stroll through the City Gate

The main entrance to Malta’s fortified capital since it was built in 1570, City Gate has gone from drawbridge (closed each night to protect the populace) to 21st-century open entranceway designed by Italian star-architect Renzo Piano (of London Shard fame). Cross the deep ditch and enter through the impressive bastion walls. Climb the steps on either side for views from the top of the fortifications (and access to Hastings Gardens and Castille Square) or head straight on past the Piano-designed parliament building that opened in 2015, and into the heart of Valletta.

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Spend an afternoon at the Upper Barrakka Gardens

These arcaded public gardens, built by the Knights of Malta and embellished by the British, sit perched on top of Valletta's towering bastion walls and boast a spectacular panorama of the Grand Harbour. Across the water is Malta’s oldest fortress and the historic Three Cities. Explore the monuments and sculptures, cool off by the fountain or grab a coffee at the little open-air café. If you can be here at noon, you’ll be treated to British martial music, a little bit of loudspeaker history and the firing of the cannons on the Saluting Battery.

Opening times:Daily, 7am to around 10pm

Upper Barrakka Gardens - Credit: trabantos
The Upper Barrakka Gardens sit perched on top of Valletta's towering bastion walls Credit: trabantos

Walk around the Valletta fortifications

Built by the Knights of St John (Knights of Malta) after they very nearly lost the islands to the Ottoman Turks in the Great Siege, Valletta was a state-of-the-art fortified city c. 1570. Much of its impressive protection is still standing today and with sea on three sides, it’s an immensely pleasant walk around the city walls. Less than 3km will take you from City Gate, past the Upper Barrakka Gardens and down the side of the Grand Harbour to the Knights Hospital and Fort St Elmo, before returning up the other side of town via the Fortress Builders: Fortifications Interpretation Centre.

Valletta fortifications walk - Credit: Ratstuben/Ratstuben
Much of Valletta's impressive protection is still standing today Credit: Ratstuben/Ratstuben

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Visit The Fortress Builders - Fortifications Interpretation Centre

Fortress Malta is a Second World War expression but this island had been heavily fortified for centuries by then. Valletta was built from scratch by the islands sixteenth-century rulers, the Knights of St John, to be impregnable, so desperate were they to keep out their sworn enemy, the Ottoman Turks. Created by the world expert on Malta’s fortifications, this centre tells the story of the nation’s defences – with models, objects and computer graphics – in as much detail as you choose to take. There is a section for children too, complete with building blocks so they can have a go at a bit of their own construction.

Contact: 00 356 21228593; thefortressbuilders.weebly.com
Opening times: Winter: Mon, Wed, Fri, 10am-4pm; Tue, Thu, 10am-7pm; Sat, 9.30am-1pm. Summer: Mon, Wed, Fri 9am-1pm; Tue, Thur, 9am-4pm

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Step inside the Church of St Paul’s Shipwreck

St Paul is a bit of a Maltese hero. According to the bible and Maltese tradition, he was shipwrecked here in 60AD, and this is one of several churches dedicated to him and this story. Inside is the colourful wooden festa statue of St Paul that is parade through the streets each February 10 (his feast day) and a couple of slightly gruesome saintly relics: ‘St Paul’s wrist-bone’ and a piece of the marble column on which he is said to have been beheaded in Rome. Around the sides of the church are intriguing little chapels each belonging to a different confraternity or guild.

Address: 74 St Paul Street (tourist entrance at the side in St Lucy Street), Valletta
Contact: 00356 21236013 
Opening times: Usually, Mon-Sat, 9.30am-noon, 3.30pm-5.30pm, but can vary

Church of St Paul's Shipwreck - Credit: VFKA
Around the sides of the Church of St Paul's Shipwreck are intriguing little chapels each belonging to a different confraternity or guild Credit: VFKA

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Birgu/Vittoriosa

Explore the tiny streets of Birgu

Officially called Vittoriosa, but almost always referred to by its pre-1570 name of Birgu, this was the Knights' first base in Malta. When the Order of St John arrived here in 1530, with Valletta not even a twinkle in their eye, these seafaring warrior monks needed to live by their boats so they settled in this, the only existing harbourside town. Birgu remains medieval in layout, a labyrinth of tiny traditional streets, flanked with many Knights'-period buildings. It’s a lovely place for an historic wander through the main square with its decorative balconies, and the Collachio, the area where the Knights had their auberges (collective homes) – now marked with plaques.

Contact: Birgu/Vittoriosa Tourist Information Office; 00 356 21800145

Old Birgu Streets, Malta - Credit: efesenko
Birgu remains medieval in layout, a labyrinth of tiny traditional streets, flanked with many Knights'-period buildings. Credit: efesenko

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Step back in time in Mdina

High above the centre of the island, Malta's first citadel capital, Mdina has been inhabited and fortified since the Bronze Age. The Romans, Arabs and Medieval aristocracy ruled from here and it remains a rarefied city of limestone palazzi, convents and churches along narrow zig-zag streets designed to fox the enemy. Left in the past when the centre of gravity moved to Valletta, Mdina remains a ‘silent city’, a living museum still inhabited by the Maltese nobility, a place of atmospheric alleys, and bastion-top walkways offering sweeping views across the island.

Contact: Mdina tourist office; 00 356 99439867

Mdina, Malta - Credit: Karina Movsesyan
Malta's first citadel capital, Mdina, has been inhabited and fortified since the Bronze Age Credit: Karina Movsesyan

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Take in a fabulous panorama at the Dingli Cliffs

The Dingli cliffs are found at the highest place in Malta, plunging a sheer 250m into the sea, but they have more to offer than spectacular views (though there are plenty of those). Here you will find Clapham Junction, the largest collection of Malta's mysterious ancient cart ruts crisscrossing their way over the surface of the rock. There are Punic tombs, and a troglodyte cave, lived in well into the nineteenth century, as well as indigenous plants and herbs aromatic underfoot. A great viewpoint is the little seventeenth-century Chapel of St Mary Magdalene where there is a viewing platform – ideal for a quick panorama or a serene sunset.

Dingli Cliffs, Malta - Credit: RudolfT/RudolfT
At Dingli Cliffs you will find Punic tombs and a cave lived in well into the nineteenth century Credit: RudolfT/RudolfT

Watch the boats bob in Marsaxlokk

Traditional fishing boats painted in bright stripes of yellow, red, blue and green bob in Marsaxlokk Harbour. This is Malta’s traditional little fishing port and boats go out and the catch comes in each day as it has for hundreds of years. Fish is sold at the early morning market – replaced later in the day by a more tourist friendly set of stalls – and eaten by Maltese and visitors alike in the string of family restaurants that range along the waterfront. It’s a delightful place for a sunny stroll, a browse, and a dreamy moment gazing out to sea.

Contact:Marsaxlokk Tourist Information Centre; 00 356 2165 1151

Marsaxlokk, Malta - Credit: eli_asenova/eli_asenova
Maraxlokk is Malta's traditional little fishing port and boats go out and the catch comes in each day as it has for years Credit: eli_asenova/eli_asenova