20 of the world's greatest autumn holidays
Whisper it softly, but there is now a distinct nip in the air. The nights are drawing in; the children are settling into school; the first leaves are falling; and the short-sleeved shirts of summer – that incredible, record-breaking, life-affirming summer – have reluctantly been folded away.
The fact is that in exactly a week’s time, the autumn equinox will be upon us. There is increasing talk of blustery winds in the air. The next thing we know, it will be Christmas.
No matter what misty-eyed poets may say, this change of season is not a cause of unalloyed joy. Who really wants it to get colder and darker? For the traveller, though, the coming weeks have much in their favour.
There’s the drop in temperature for a start. No matter how much we say we love the heat, generally we feel much more comfortable in more temperate climes.
Exploring cities in particular is so much more enjoyable when the temperatures are in the comfortable 20s rather than the furnace-like 40s. For those seeking inspiration for an autumn city break right now, Nick Trend suggests Amsterdam, Madrid, Vienna, Milan and the perennial favourite, Paris.
Then there are the spectacular autumn leaves, the exquisite shows of colour from the New Forest to New England to the Rockies which, while marking the end of nature’s annual cycle, generate such a heart-warmning glow. In addition to tried and tested favourites at home and across the Pond, Paul Wade has some well considered suggestions for trips to the forests of Germany and far further afield, Japan, a country with autumn reds and golds which in their own way are as dramatic as the fabled cherry blossoms of spring.
The new, welcome freshness in the air lends itself to motion, a rekindling of the desire to engage with the great outdoors and the “mellow fruitfulness” of harvest time. Autumnal strolls and country pub refreshments loom, with Richard Madden’s proposals extending from day-trips to Dorset and the Lake District to a week’s walking in the hills and gorges of Crete.
Of course you may prefer to use this time of year to head to the beaches of southern Europe where until well into October – and minus the crowds (and prices) of high season – you can still catch the warming rays of the sun and swim in a sea that will retain the heat of summer for many weeks to come. Jane Foster’s suggestions range from Nice and the Amalfi Coast to Montenegro and the island of Rhodes.
And you know what, for all the talk of blustery winds, it may remain pretty nice here, too, with forecasters predicting we are in for a warmer than average rest of September and October.
I know, I know, when did the forecasters ever get it right? But keep those short-sleeved shirts handy just in case. And enjoy it while it lasts…
Fantastic foliage
1. Northeast Kingdom, Vermont
Autumn is New England’s high season, with brilliant red, yellow, purple and orange leaves. Avoid the crowds; head for Vermont’s remote Northeast Kingdom. During the local Fall Foliage Festival, visit seven towns in seven days, each with crafts, home-baked apple pies, church suppers and live music (Sept 30-Oct 6; nekchamber.com).
America as You Like It (020 8742 8299; americaasyoulikeit.com) offers 10-night New England fall fly/drives, with six nights in Vermont, from £1,499. Includes return flights to Boston, car hire, b&b accommodation.
2. The New Forest, Hampshire
Closer to home, Channel 4’s “A Year in the New Forest” highlighted autumn in this lovely part of the country with ponies and pigs and glowing beech, sweet chestnut, oak and silver birch leaves (thenewforest.co.uk). Looking for something extra special? Try Exbury Gardens, where Head Gardener Tom Clarke’s favourites include pinky-red dogwood, flaming maples and the national collection of Nyssa, which turns as red as a London bus (exbury.co.uk).
The Cottage Lodge Hotel (01590 622 296; cottagelodge.co.uk) in Brockenhurst was built in 1650 from reclaimed ship’s timbers. From £90 a night for b&b in October.
3. Hainich National Park, Germany
From the 131-foot tower, the gold and copper beeches stretch for 29 square miles. Hainich National Park in Thuringia, unspoiled by roads, powerlines or homes, is the sort of primeval forest that inspired fairy tales. Follow the 1,750-ft long Canopy Walk through the treetops; on the ground, explore by bike, on horseback or in horse-drawn carriages. Watch for wildcats (nationalpark-hainich.de/en).
Fred Holidays (0808 250 7755; fredholidays.co.uk) offers three nights b&b in Bad Langensalza from £519. Includes return flights to Frankfurt and car hire.
4. Lake Louise, Rockies, Canada
Ride the Lake Louise Gondola up to the 6,850-ft viewing platform. Look out at mighty mountains, a glacier, a sapphire lake and the zingy yellow of millions of alpine larches. Spot grizzly bears and big horn sheep below; hear elk bugling. Hike or paddle a canoe under the bluest of skies. In autumn, the Rockies are a must.
Windows on the Wild (020 8742 1556; windowsonthewild.com) offers seven nights in Alberta from £1,080. Includes return flights to Calgary, car hire, accommodation.
5. Kyoto, Japan
The Cherry Blossom Festival is famous; less well-known is the autumnal momijigari or koyo, viewing the red and gold leaves. During the surprisingly long season, lasting through November, temples are accented by bright maples. Munch on roasted chestnuts; try momiji tempura, sugar-dipped maple leaves, fried in tempura batter.
InsideJapan (0117 370 9730; insidejapantours.com) has 13-night Autumn Splendour self-guided trips from £2,600 (flights extra) with top koyo sights, cycling, tea ceremony, private garden tours and more. Includes transport, accommodation, some meals.
City splendours
6. Amsterdam, Netherlands
With the new direct link from Eurostar you can now get from London to Amsterdam in about four hours by train (unfortunately, you still have to change at Brussels on the way back). It’s a great excuse to re-discover the city, even if you have visited before. The Rembrandt House (rembrandthuis.nl) is a brilliant insight into the artist, while the Van Gogh museum has a fascinating new exhibition charting Paul Gauguin’s and Charles Laval’s visit to Martinique in 1887, from October 5.
Our recommendations: telegraph.co.uk/tt-amsterdamguide
7. Madrid, Spain
Arguably Europe’s most neglected capital city and far less crowded and much better value than its great rival, Barcelona. The city sleeps in August when the heat is oppressive, but it enjoys a gloriously warm sunny autumn. Among the many cultural highlights this year is The Prado’s (museodelprado.es) exhibition of Lorenzo Lotto’s portraits, which continues until September 30.
Our recommendations: telegraph.co.uk/tt-madridguide
8. Vienna, Austria
Another neglected cultural capital, this is where I am headed for my city break this month. It’s a great time to visit the Austrian capital which is celebrating the centenaries of the deaths of two of its greatest artists - Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele - and its finest architect, Otto Wagner. The are major exhibitions in the Wien Museum (until October 7, wienmuseum.at) and the Leopold Museum (until November 4, leopoldmuseum.org/en). Meanwhile a landmark Breugel exhibition opens on October 2 at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (khm.at), and there’s a Monet retrospective at the Albertina from September 21 (albertina.at).
Our recommendations: telegraph.co.uk/tt-vienna
9. Paris, France
September is always expensive in Paris - hotels are heavily booked for trade and fashion shows. Go in October instead when the crowds diminish and the cultural season kicks off. If you have stamina, La Nuit Blanche (this year on October 6) is an all-night happening with installations, video projections and art events going on all around the capital (quefaire.paris.fr/nuitblanche). Or you could save your energy for the two blockbuster exhibitions at the Grand Palais (grandpalais.fr): Magnificent Venice from Sept 26, and a Joan Miro retrospective from October 3.
Our recommendations: telegraph.co.uk/tt-parisguide
10. Milan, Italy
It’s famous for its shopping and fashion of course, but, like Paris, once the September shows are over, Milan’s cultural life is rekindled. Its great art museum, the Pinacoteca di Brera (pinacotecabrera.org/en) has just completed a three-year renovation programme. It has a fabulous, little-known collection including seminal works by Piero della Francesca, Raphael and Caravaggio. And it’s a good time to check out the city’s Leonardo da Vincis, ahead of next year - the 500th anniversary of his death. His notebooks are in the Ambrosiana Library (www.ambrosiana.eu), and don’t forget the Last Supper (vivaticket.it).
Our recommendations telegraph.co.uk/tt-milanhotels
Back to the beach
11. Cavtat, Croatia
Croatia’s southernmost seaside resort, pretty Cavat (12 miles from Dubrovnik) perches on a rocky peninsular, with a pebble bay to each side. Snooze below pine trees, swim off the rocks and drink sunset cocktails at Little Star beach bar (beachbarlittlestar.com) or catch a water-taxi to Dubrovnik for sightseeing and a return stop at Mlini beach. Explore rural Konavle, lunching next to waterfalls at Konavoski Dvori (esculaprestaurants.com), or hiking the Čiro trail (wine-tasting and picnic included) with Picnic Dubrovnik (piknikdubrovnik.com).
Hotel Croatia in Cavtat (doubles from £181 a night; telegraph.co.uk/tt-cavtat); EasyJet (easyjet.com) flies to Dubrovnik from Bristol, Edinburgh, London and Manchester till late-October.
12. Rhodes, Greece
Sun, sand and warm sea (average 26°C) make Rhodes a perfect autumn choice. The crowds have dispersed, leaving hideaways like whitewashed hillside Lindos, overlooking Pallas and St Paul’s beaches, romantic and serene, and the wide golden sands of Tsambika, semi-deserted and balmy, while on Rhodes’ southern tip, Prasonisi (prasonisicenter.com) winds are still optimum for surfing and kite-boarding. Explore Rhodes enchanting medieval Old Town, and catch a ferry to Symi, with its neo-classical mansions and tranquil pebble coves backed by tamarisk trees.
Thomas Cook (thomascook.com) offers various packages based in Lindos in Rhodes; easyJet (easyjet.com) flies to Rhodes from Liverpool, London and Newcastle till late-Oct
13. Nice, France
Autumnal sunshine combines with modern art in the glamorous Cote d’Azur. Base yourself in Nice, to bathe at beaches ranging from the stunning 3-mile-long sandy Plage de Pampelonne just outside St Tropez to the chi-chi Paloma private pebble beach at Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. If the weather breaks, check out museums celebrating 20th-century painters who resided here, including Matisse, Picasso and Chagall, and drive into the hills of Provence to the enchanting Fondation Maeght (fondation-maeght.com) exhibiting Miro, Giacometti and others, in Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
EasyJet (easyjet.com) flies to Nice from Belfast, Edinburgh, Liverpool, and Newcastle till late-Oct, and from Bristol and London all year.
14. Positano, Amalfi Coast
In dreamy Positano, pastel facades draped in bougainvillea hug a cliffside, with steps leading down to a shingle beach – madly overcrowded in summer, but mellow come September. Along the coast, you have a long sandy beach at Maiori, and in the fishing village of Cetara, a pretty pebble cove rimmed by seafood eateries. Sample the local tipple, limoncello, at Il Gusto della Costa (ilgustodellacosta.it) in Praiano, visit hillside Ravello for spectacular views over the gulf, and catch a boat to Capri.
Italian specialists, Citalia (citalia.com) offer one-week October breaks flying from Gatwick at the Minori Palace in Maiori, from £732 or one-week at the Marincanto Hotel in Positano from £1,115.
15. Sveti Stefan, Montenegro
Although much of the Budva coast has been rashly overdeveloped, Aman Sveti Stefan offers three divine pink-sand beaches, plus magnificent accommodation in a fortified 15th-century fishing village, on a tiny islet, and in 1930’s Villa Miločer, in gardens with an Aman Spa. Indulge in beauty treatments and swim in the indoor heated sea-view pool, backed by pinewoods.
Until Oct 15, Aman Sveti Stefan (aman.com) offers a three-day Romantic Getaway package including double room, breakfast, airport transfers, a herbal bath for two and a 60-minute massage for two from €828 (£738) per night; easyJet flies to Tivat from Gatwick and Manchester till late-Oct.
A walk in the park
16. Bovey Castle, Dartmoor
The onset of autumn with its crisp mornings and brilliant colours brings a unique atmosphere to the magical world of Dartmoor with its pre-historic landscape of stone circles, tors and rolling moorland. Bovey Castle, set in its own 275-acre estate makes the perfect base for a walking break. Don’t miss the Ring of Bells, a 13th Century thatched inn in nearby North Bovey, for a post-walk pint.
Bovey Castle (01647 445 007; boveycastle.com) offers rooms from £179 (two sharing) per night, including access to the Elan Spa.
17. Windermere, Lake District
The summer crowds have dispersed and the Lake District has at last returned to near Wainwright walking perfection. The Samling Country House Hotel is perched on a hillside 350ft above Lake Windermere surrounded by nearly 70 acres of gardens fields and woodland. Wansfell is - quite literally - on the doorstep and Loughrigg Fell above Grasmere with views over mountains, six lakes, and one tarn is just a short drive away.
The Samling (015394 31922; samlinghotel.co.uk) offers rooms from £390 b&b (two sharing) per night. Two pet-friendly suites available.
18. Central Highlands, Scotland
A guided walk in the Central Highlands that takes in Glen Affric and the Great Glen among others. Highlights include majestic Plodda Falls, the remote eastern shores of Loch Oich, and the ancient woodlands of Glen Affric itself. Accommodation is in an eco-friendly boutique hotel in the village of Fort Augustus at the southern end of Loch Ness.
Wilderness Scotland (01479 898546; wildernessscotland.com) offers a four-night break including most meals and a walking guide from £1,150. Departs Oct 10.
19. Vikos Gorge, Corfu
The little known Vikos Gorge, one of the deepest canyons in the world, is part of the remote Zagoria region of north-west Greece, one of the most beautiful mountain regions in Europe. After two nights on the island of Corfu, you will spend the next five days walking between Zagoria’s traditional stone villages (Kapesovo, Papingo), crossing some of its trademark arched stone bridges, and exploring the Vikos Gorge.
On Foot Holidays (01722 322 652; onfootholidays.co.uk) offers a seven-night walking holiday from £740 per person.
20. Chania, Crete
Justly famed for its spring flowers, Crete’s autumnal offerings are also world-class with early autumn rains bringing a dazzling variety of crocus, cyclamen, colchicum and narcissi back to life. Based in the former Venetian port of Chania, you will explore many of the island’s famous gorges including Samaria, Imbros and Sirikari as well as plateaus and coastal plains.
Naturetrek (01962 733051; naturetrek.co.uk) offers a seven-night walking holiday from £1,395 including b&b accommodation, flights, all lunches and the services of a Naturetrek botanist. Departs: Oct 16.
