The 10 best North American ski resorts
Compared to making the short hop to the Alps, few Britons venture across the Pond to the slopes of North America, but nearly all who do relish the experience and think it well worth the considerable travelling time and additional expense.
The attractions include frequent dumps of snow on quiet – often deserted – mountains that boast immaculate piste grooming operations, efficient lift systems and few queues. The resort villages have high-quality accommodation and high standards of service and courtesy.
For those who enjoy powder, there’s another huge attraction – the knowledge you can safely play in it without paying for a guide or carrying avalanche safety equipment. Unlike in Europe, in North America every ski area boundary is marked by signs or a rope – and all the terrain within, however steep and gnarly, is avalanche controlled. It’s patrolled too, although it’s best to take a buddy if heading to the trees or wilder terrain.
North America has resorts to suit everyone, not just good skiers and snowboarders. However, holidays here aren’t cheap; and neither are extras such as lift passes and tuition, which are generally more expensive than Europe. With lift passes, bear in mind that in many resorts you can save money by buying them in advance through UK tour ops and resort websites. Passes often allow you to pick which days to ski on – for example, six non-consecutive days out of eight.
Unless otherwise stated, prices are per person based on two sharing, accommodation only, including flights and transfers, for seven days.
Best for powder
Alta/Snowbird, Utah
These linked resorts are the powder capitals of the world – the snow here is as plentiful, frequent and light as it comes. On average, they receive more than 14m of snow a year, twice as much as some resorts in the neighbouring state of Colorado and around 30 per cent more than nearby Park City. Although most of the slopes are left ungroomed, there are some groomed runs for intermediates and plenty of steep slopes for confident intermediates to try powder.
The slopes of the two resorts add up to a big area by US standards – 4,700 acres. Snowboarding is banned on Alta's slopes, but allowed in Snowbird, where a new complex opened on Hidden Peak at the top of Snowbird’s ski area. Its two-storey floor-to-ceiling windows afford spectacular views of the Wasatch mountains and Salt Lake valley below. Situated right by the top station of the aerial tram, the building, known as the Summit, houses a self-service restaurant and a coffee shop, and has a large outdoor terrace.
The resorts themselves are both tiny, quiet collections of hotels and apartments. Alta, a previously bustling mining town, has a friendlier, more old-fashioned feel than Snowbird, whose modern, concrete, purpose-built base village lacks resort charm. There are few bars or restaurants, except those linked to hotels, and there's little to do off the slopes, unless you drive the 40km into nearby Salt Lake City.
Where to stay
To make the most of the powder, opt for the Cliff Lodge – Snowbird's biggest and plushest hotel – which is located right on the slopes and its rooms underwent a full renovation for the 2015/16 season. It also features a rooftop pool and spa. From £1,755, including flights, lift passes and transfers or car hire, Ski Safari (skisafari.com).
Alternatives
Jackson Hole in Wyoming has a top-notch snow record – almost a match for the best in Utah. However, due to its low altitude and the fact that many slopes are fairly sunny (most face south or south east) snow can quickly disappear.
Squaw Valley in California is the snowiest major resort in California – firmly in the first division, with more than 11m per year.
Fast facts
Snowbird
Resort 2,470m
Slopes 2,365m to 3,350m
Lifts 11
Pistes 2,500 acres, 27% green, 38% blue, 35% black
Snowmaking 21%
Six-day lift pass $473
More info snowbird.com
Alta
Resort 2,600m
Slopes 2,600m-3,215m
Lifts 11
Pistes 2,200 acres, 25% green, 40% blue, 35% black
Snowmaking Some
Six-day lift pass $454
More info alta.com
Best for experts
Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Jackson does a great job of projecting a macho image – you may have seen pictures of daredevils jumping into the resort's signature run, Corbet's Couloir – a narrow chute that can normally only be accessed by taking off into the air, and features an initial pitch of 50 degrees. However, Corbet’s is not typical of the runs here. Although the resort has a huge amount of steep terrain that gets a seriously large amount of snow, the slopes aren't high, and they get plenty of sun, so snow can deteriorate quickly, especially on the lower mountain. But there's usually another snowstorm brewing.
There's intermediate and beginner terrain, but the ski area isn't vast, so it’s difficult to recommend to those not up to the steep stuff. However, new for the 2016/17, the two-stage, eight-person Sweetwater gondola will help these two groups easily reach suitable terrain – the first stage gives access to beginner terrain and the second stage to intermediate groomed pistes. It will be located between the Bridger gondola and Teewinot high speed quad with a mid-station approximately a third of the way up the mountain in the Solitude area, then continues up to terminate just uphill of the Casper Restaurant. In total, the new gondola will rise 1,276 vertical feet.
Experts will enjoy the new 200 acres of terrain that were opened up by the Teton Lift, a new, fast quad chair in Jackson Hole for 2015/16 – half of the terrain was previously only accessible by hiking. Towards the right-hand side of the ski area, going from mid-mountain up to Sheridan Ridge, this new lift opens up some steep, ungroomed runs, plus three new groomed trails. It also makes doing laps of several runs lower down easier (on Moran Face and Moran Woods), as it cuts out tedious traverses to reach the Casper quad chair.
Other on-mountain improvements include Rendezvous Lodge at the top of the Bridger Gondola. It’s already home to the Couloir Restaurant but is opening a second eatery, called the Piste Mountain Bistro. While Couloir continues to serve contemporary western cuisine, the Bistro is designed to be a more casual place, despite being table service. Both are open for dinner on certain evenings too.
The town of Jackson, a 15-minute drive from the slopes, promotes a Wild West image with its wooden sidewalks, cowboy saloons and pool halls, and is a characterful place to stay. Alternatively, Teton Village at the base of the slopes has been much developed in recent years and has a number of comfortable hotels. You can catch the bus to town for a night out – the last one back is at 11pm.
Where to stay
For the ultimate in convenience and luxury, the Four Seasons hotel is unrivalled. It's situated just yards from the lift base, boasts its own ski hire shop, and offers luxurious, spacious accommodation. From £2,259, Frontier (frontier-ski.co.uk).
Alternatives
Aspen in Colorado has four mountains, three of which offer challenging terrain. Aspen Mountain, above the town, has an array of double-black diamond runs, while Aspen Highlands features tough top-to-bottom runs as well as Highland Bowl – a big open bowl, reached by hiking from the top lift, with steep pitches ranging from 38 to 48 degrees. Snowmass, meanwhile, has some steep, wooded slopes and narrow, often rocky, chutes.
The lift-linked resorts of Alta and Snowbird in Utah both have plenty of steep slopes, some lightly wooded, on which to enjoy their famous powder.
Fast facts
Resort 1,925m
Slopes 1,925m to 3,185m
Lifts 14
Pistes 2,500 acres, 10% green, 40% blue, 50% black
Snowmaking 8%
Six-day lift pass $612
More info jacksonhole.com
Best for intermediates
Park City, Utah
Most of the resorts listed here are well suited to intermediates, but Park City is one of the best. Its ski area – located directly above the town – is laced with cruisy blue runs, and there are also plenty of easy blacks, plus tempting, ungroomed gladed tree runs.
And, in 2015/16, Park City became America's biggest ski area. A massive $50m of improvements were made to the resort, including a high-speed, two-way eight-seater gondola to link it to next door Canyons, creating one ski area with more than 7,300 acres of terrain. The link is between mid-mountain in the Park City area and mid-mountain at Canyons, via Pinecone Ridge. There, a mid-station allows passengers to disembark to head down two new groomed trails on the Canyons side of Pinecone, or pass through gates to access ungroomed backcountry on the Park City side.
Canyons features lots of steep terrain, and the size of the new ski area comfortably beats American big hitters Big Sky in Montana (5,800 acres) and Vail in Colorado (5,289 acres). In North American terms, it is second in size only to Whistler in British Columbia (8,171 acres).
Other resort improvements included a new 500-seater restaurant, Snow Hut Lodge, at the base of the Quicksilver gondola on the Park City side. The Motherlode chair, which goes up into the heart of Park City’s ski area, was replaced by a fast quad. And the King Con quad has been upgraded to a swish six-seater. Meanwhile, on the Canyons side, the mid-mountain Red Pine Lodge restaurant was renovated and expanded.
In addition to all this terrain, the immaculate slopes of upmarket Deer Valley (no snowboarding allowed) are nearby, separated from Park City’s by nothing more than a fence – crossing the divide is banned and you can only access its runs from base level. Add Deer Valley to Park City and Canyons, and there are 9,326 acres on offer.
Park City has a cute, compact centre around historic Main Street, with lots of lively restaurants, bars and shops, but its lodgings sprawl over a vast area.
Where to stay
The Best Western Landmark is situated in between Park City and Canyons and the free hotel shuttle bus can take you to either of these two ski resorts. Close to the hotel are several restaurants, some decent bars, shops and even a cinema. The hotel is of a high standard with a hearty breakfast and good facilities, including a pool and hot tubs, offering superb value. From £1,024, Crystal (crystalski.co.uk).
Alternatives
Heavenly, which spans the border between California and Nevada, has everything from long cruises with spectacular lake views to widely spaced trees that encourage you to try powder. Vail in Colorado is one of America’s biggest areas, with three linked faces offering long cruises, groomed gladed tree runs and easy ungroomed terrain.
Fast facts
Park City
Resort 2,105m
Slopes 2,075m to 3050m
Lifts 40
Pistes 7,300 acres, 8% green, 47% blue, 45% black
Snowmaking 15%
Seven-day lift pass $609 (Epic Pass valid across 13 ski resorts including Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge and Park City)
More info parkcitymountain.com
Best for beginners
Breckenridge, Colorado
Breckenridge's ski area is divided into five lift and piste-linked sectors – Peak 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 – and there are few nursery slopes in the world to rival the long, wide, gentle run at the foot of Breckenridge's Peak 9. And a couple of those rivals are at the foot of next-door Peak 8. Couple this with beginner-friendly chairlifts and magic carpets in the nursery areas and you have the ideal launch pad. For others in your party, Breckenridge’s 2,901 acres of slopes have plenty to interest both intermediates and experts, with steeper skiing above the treeline. The ski school does good-value packages of lessons, lift pass and equipment hire.
Due to its high altitude (almost 3,000 metres), some visitors to Breckenridge suffer altitude sickness. If possible, rather than travelling straight from Denver airport to the resort, stay a night or two in the city first to help acclimatise.
On the mountain, a new restaurant will open at the top of the Independence SuperChair at the top of Peak 7 during the early 2016/17 season. The new eatery will mean guests don’t need to travel to the nearby Peak 8 or 9 to eat and will offer great views. It will serve hot and cold food, including Mediterranean dishes and salads, and seat 490 people.
The Victorian-style town of Breckenridge is relatively good value for the US, with countless shops, bars and restaurants. Plus, you can pretty much rely on snow on the streets, to add to the charm.
Where to stay
For a hassle-free, convenient stay, the huge Beaver Run Resort (with hotel rooms and apartments) is hard to beat. Its slopeside position provides instant access to the slopes, there are a range of on-site bars and restaurants to choose from, accommodation is spacious, and there are two pools and seven hot tubs. From £1,223, Crystal (crystalski.co.uk).
Alternatives
Winter Park in Colorado offers first-class facilities for beginners. The Sorensen Park beginner zone at the base of the mountain has gentle slopes and magic carpet lifts, while Discovery Park at mid-mountain is a 25-acre dedicated beginner area. As well as a nursery area, it has longer green runs to progress to and an adventure trail through the trees.
Also in Colorado is Beaver Creek, which has two beginner areas – one at village level and one at the top of the mountain, both served by novice-friendly lifts. There are plenty of easy long greens to practise on, too.
Fast facts
Resort 2,925m
Slopes 2,925m to 3,915m
Lifts 34
Pistes 2,901 acres, 14% green, 31% blue, 55% black
Snowmaking 24%
Seven-day lift pass $609 (Epic Pass valid across 13 ski resorts including Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge and Park City)
More info breckenridge.com
Best for charm
Aspen, Colorado
During the 1880s Aspen enjoyed a brief silver-mining boom and then, after decades of neglect, its historic core was brought back to life thanks to the skiing boom of the late 20th century. This is a delightful place to stroll around in the evenings, window shopping and enjoying its varied restaurants and bars.
There are four separate ski areas – Buttermilk, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Aspen Mountain – all covered on one lift pass. Aspen Mountain is accessed from town by gondola, while the other three are reached by free shuttle buses. Buttermilk is the smallest and least challenging area, Aspen Mountain has long cruising blue runs and short, steep blacks, while Aspen Highlands has easy intermediate slopes, steep black runs and the Highlands Bowl – reached by hiking from the top lift and featuring pitches of up to 48 degrees. Snowmass is the most extensive area, with terrain for all, and is a self-contained resort, and worth considering as a base if you’re less concerned with charm.
Where to stay
Aspen tends to be expensive, and finding affordable accommodation can be challenging. One of the best value options is the long-established but modern Limelight hotel. Its central location provides easy access to the lifts, the rooms are stylish and the breakfast buffet extensive. From £1,588 with breakfast, Ski Independence (ski-i.com).
Alternatives
The restored mining town of Telluride in Colorado has a classic Wild West main street and backstreets lined by cosy cabins. The ski area, while not huge (2,000 acres), is varied and accessed from town by a series of lifts. Crested Butte, also in Colorado, is another restored mining town, offering much the same recipe as Telluride but on a slightly smaller scale. Free shuttle buses run from town to the slopes (1,547 acres), which are a couple of miles away.
Fast facts
Resort 2,425m
Aspen/Snowmass combined
Slopes 2,400m to 3,815m
Lifts 42
Pistes 5,547 acres, 10% green, 44% blue, 46% black
Snowmaking 13%
Six-day lift pass $594
More info aspensnowmass.com
Best for ski-in/ski-out convenience
Big White, BC
North American resorts aren’t known for their ski-from-the-door convenience, but some have been purpose-built for easy access to the slopes. Of these, among the most convenient is Big White – virtually all the hotels and apartments in this modern resort are ski-in/ski-out, with the main lifts starting below village level. Even the main street through the centre of the resort is designated a ski run and can be traversed to get back to your accommodation.
The terrain suits intermediates best, and the abundance of snow combined with lots of trees for shelter means it's a great place to learn powder. There's also an area called Happy Valley at the bottom of the village offering activities such as ice skating, snowmobiling, tubing, ice climbing and snowshoeing, served by a gondola that runs till 10pm. The village has limited après and shopping, but there are some decent restaurants.
Where to stay
Stonebridge Lodge calls itself “the best accommodation bar none at Big White”. Ski-in/ski-out and slap bang in the centre of resort, with a range of spacious, stylishly decorated apartments (most with private outdoor hot tubs), it's hard to argue with the moniker. From £1,221, based on four sharing a two-bedroom executive room and including free ski carriage, Ski Line (skiline.co.uk).
Alternatives
Panorama is a purpose-built resort, with some lodgings set right at the lift base, and others slightly below, linked by a little gondola. In Silver Star, the lodgings are halfway up the hill, so you can start your day with a run not a lift.
Fast facts
Resort 1,755m
Slopes 1,510m to 2,320m
Lifts 15
Pistes 2,765 acres, 18% green, 54% blue, 28% black
Snowmaking In terrain park
Six-day lift pass C$497
More info bigwhite.com
Best all-rounder
Whistler, BC
Whistler’s two linked mountains (Whistler and Blackcomb) add up to make the biggest ski area in North America, which more or less automatically puts the resort on the shortlist of most transatlantic visitors – and certainly intermediates who like to rack up the miles without repeating the same slopes. The news that Vail Resorts is acquiring this behemoth isn't likely to affect the 2016/17 season much – but come 2017/18 Whistler should be part of Vail's multi-resort Epic Pass, making it even more attractive.
For beginners, there are top-to-bottom green runs to progress to after leaving the nursery slopes, and Whistler mountain will be even more beginner-friendly for the 2016/17 season, with new learning areas and some runs being regraded to give a more positive experience for beginners. For experts, the high open bowls offer a wide range of possibilities, with regular dumps of powder streaming in from the nearby Pacific. And there are world-class terrain parks.
The purpose-built resort village is big and busy, with lots of bars and restaurants, a lively après scene at the lift base from mid-afternoon onwards, and a wide range of shops. There’s also plenty to do off the slopes, from zip lines and tubing to snowmobiling and eagle-watching tours.
In 2016 the resort announced that it will spend £186 million ($345 million CAD) on a new project called Whistler Blackcomb Renaissance to increase the resort’s year-round appeal. The large investment includes new weather-independent experiences, on-mountain winter and summer improvements, luxury property developments and the rejuvenation of Blackcomb’s upper and lower base areas. The project will be undertaken in three phases, with phase one and two expected to be complete in four to five years.
Where to stay
Right at the foot of the Blackcomb slopes, the ski-in/ski-out Fairmont Chateau offers classic elegance and extensive amenities, such as a choice of seven on-site eateries and a spa with outdoor heated pool (which even plays music underwater). From £1,700, Frontier (frontier-ski.co.uk).
Alternatives
While nowhere else is quite in the same league as Whistler, Panorama has excellent terrain for beginners, experts and adventurous intermediates. It's a bit limited for blue-run skiers, though. In Lake Louise, all three sectors have plenty to amuse intermediates and experts alike, though you can’t count on deep powder. For beginners, there are good nursery slopes at the base lodge.
Fast facts
Resort 675m
Slopes 650m to 2,285m
Lifts 37
Pistes 8,171 acres, 18% green, 55% blue, 27% black
Snowmaking 8%
Six-day lift pass C$800 (almost half this price if booked online)
More info whistlerblackcomb.com
Best for families
Winter Park, Colorado
Winter Park may lack the glamour of better-known Colorado resorts, such as Breckenridge and Vail, but the absence of weekday lift queues (weekends tend to be busier due to visitors from nearby Denver) and the growing range of good-value accommodation around the lift base will appeal to families. As will the facilities for beginners. The Sorensen Park beginner zone at the base of the mountain has gentle slopes and magic carpet lifts, while the Discovery Park at mid-mountain is the jewel in the crown. This 25-acre dedicated beginner area is served by two chairlifts and as well as a nursery area, it has longer green runs to progress to and an adventure trail through the trees.
If you want to enjoy Winter Park's powder (it's the snowiest of all major Colorado resorts, with around 8m annually) without the kids in tow, then the resort's childcare facilities are first-rate. Wee Willie's Child Care at the base area offers daycare facilities for youngsters aged two months to six years, and is the meeting point for children's classes.
The lift base makes an ideal place for families to stay, with easy access to the slopes, a number of family-friendly restaurants, as well as a handful of bars and shops. Nightlife is quiet. Off-slope activities for children include tubing and ice skating. The town of Winter Park, a bus ride away, lacks the usual shops and restaurants found in most resorts, and is a less convenient place to stay.
For the 2016/17 season Winter Park will be easier for skiers and snowboarders to reach – they can now take the train all the way from the airport to Winter Park resort thanks to a new service that is running from Denver International Airport to Denver Union station and from there you can catch a direct train to Winter Park resort, dropping you off moments from the lifts. The train will run to the resort from Denver Union every weekend from January through to March.
Where to stay
The Zephyr Mountain Lodge condos offer the best blend of flexibility and convenience for families. Just a few steps from the lifts and base area amenities, the condos come with a fully equipped kitchen, as well as access to hot tubs and fitness room. Average price £1,471, Crystal Ski (crystalski.co.uk).
Alternatives
With slopeside lodgings, a number of beginner slopes, special trails and maps for kids, and an impressive Treehouse indoor adventure centre at the base for children aged up to four, Snowmass in Colorado is an appealing destination for families. Vail in Colorado has plenty to offer, too, with the Small World Nursery at Golden Peak catering for those aged two months to six years. There are also special on-mountain adventure zones and trails, as well as kids' snowmobiling and tubing.
Fast facts
Resort 2,745m
Slopes 2,475m to 3,675m
Lifts 25
Pistes 3,081 acres, 8% green, 37% blue, 55% black
Snowmaking 10%
Six-day lift pass $541
More info winterparkresort.com
Best for terrain parks
Mammoth Mountain, California
There are slopes for all abilities at Mammoth, but it's the terrain parks that really set this place apart – they're among the best in the world. There are eight parks in total, with more than 50 jumps, 70 jibs and four halfpipes in more than 70 acres of freestyle terrain – they range in difficulty from the beginner level Disco and Wonderland parks to Main Park, where all the features are up to pro-rider standard. Each park is maintained to an exceptionally high standard.
The mountain, with its 3,500 acres of terrain, offers something for everyone, with harder runs at altitude and easier slopes lower down, as well as a mix of open alpine-style bowls and classic American wooded slopes. There's lodging at or near various lift bases on the mountain – Canyon Lodge, Eagle Lodge and Main Lodge – and in the traffic-free Village, which has a gondola link to the slopes. There is also a sprinkling of hotels, apartments, restaurants and shops dotted around the sprawling wooded area of Mammoth Lakes, which has no discernible centre and is about 20 minutes drive from the ski area. It pays to have a car if staying here, although there are free shuttle buses from Mammoth Lakes to the lift bases.
Where to stay
The Westin Monache Resort has a prime location close to the Village gondola and comfortable, airy rooms. A restaurant, bar, outdoor pool, gym and ski valet service complete the package. From £585, travel not included, Supertravel (supertravel.co.uk).
Alternatives
Breckenridge in Colorado offers four terrain parks to suit all abilities. The main focus is on Peak 8 (one of Breckenridge's five ski area sectors) with the Freeway park, one of North America's best, featuring a series of big jumps, obstacles and a 22-foot super-pipe. Park Lane provides a variety of challenging features, while Trygves has gentle jumps and rollers for novices. On Peak 9, Highway 9 is an entry-level terrain park with small jumps, rails and boxes. Park City in Utah has eight world-class terrain parks, each maintained to a high standard. Little Kings is an entry-level park, Three Kings is for all abilities and floodlit until 7pm, and Pick 'N Shovel offers more advanced terrain with bigger jumps and features.
Fast facts
Resorts 2,425m
Slopes 2,425m to 3,370m
Lifts 28
Pistes 3,500 acres, 25% green, 40% blue, 35% black
Snowmaking 33%
Six-day lift pass $342
More info mammothmountain.com
Best for value
Banff, AB
Banff does not offer the lowest on-the-spot prices, but it has one key advantage over other Canadian resorts – tour operators offer great-value package holidays here. The town sits at one end of a fabulously scenic drive through mountainous national parks, and there are a lot of lodgings here to meet summer demand – in winter these lodgings are relatively cheap.
Banff itself is a jolly little tourist town with more than 100 bars and restaurants, and countless souvenir shops. It has three ski areas, each a free bus ride from town. Norquay is only a few minutes away, but tiny, with just 190 acres of terrain including a good nursery area. Sunshine Village, 20 minutes away, is a fair size (3,358 acres), and is known for its steep terrain and plenty of snow. It installed Canada's first heated chairlift in 2015/16 – a fast quad on Lookout Mountain, which gives access to some good double black diamond runs. Meanwhile Lake Louise, 45 minutes away, is the largest area, with 4,200 acres of terrain best suited to intermediates and experts, served by 10 lifts.
Where to stay
Four-star Banff Caribou Lodge on the main street is affordably priced, warm and welcoming. As well as a homely atmosphere, it has a steak restaurant and fully equipped spa. From £889, Inghams (inghams.co.uk).
Alternatives
Jasper, which serves the nearby Marmot Basin ski area, is a big summer destination like Banff – so it also has plenty of competitively priced lodgings in winter. Kimberley is a small resort with ski-in/ski-out lodgings offering some keenly priced packages.
Fast facts
Resort 1,380m
Big Three
Slopes 1,630m to 2,730m
Lifts 28
Pistes 7,748 acres, 22% green, 45% blue, 33% black
Snowmaking 24%
Six-day lift pass C$673
More info skibig3.com
